anti sump failure..........(2015)

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Can someone post a pic or Web address of the relevant switch.
I recall someone on here was experimenting with making a ball valve with electricial contacts, but can't seem to find the post
There is a thread on here titled "ironjohn" which has links to the two versions that i know of - sorry not sure what is on Ebay.
I have the Ironjohn one on my commando, works well but is sizeable. On stock wiring i had it as an interrupter on the supply to the electronic ignition.
I have the other (made by Kingpin Components, resold by others) on my ES2, also works well, much smaller but originally designed for magnetos so comes with a relay to act as the cut out for coil ignition.
 
Ride the Norton as it should and it won't wet sump, over 43 years of ownership and my bike has never wet sumped when ridden all the time and even letting it sit for a few weeks no problem but let it sit for 6 months or more then it will wet sump it really has only wet sump on me once in all these years of ownership when I retired it from full riding it because of a new bike and if its not ridden for sometime it only takes a few minutes to drain the oil, compared to put a valve on the oil line to stop wet sumping, is it worth it in the long run.

Ashley
 
I just ordered an anti-sump valve that opens and closes manually on e-bay from Massachusetts. Here is the key point - the shut-off valve handle completes an electric circuit for starting the engine of my 1973 Norton Commando 850 Roadster. If the rider forgets to turn the valve prior to starting, the motorcycle will not start. The valve is essentially a kill switch so the rider does not forget to open the valve prior to taking off on the motorcycle ! This may a good solution to this anti-sump problem ! I will keep everyone posted !

I have the same system on my 850, fitted it years ago!
 
The only time mine wet sumps is during winter storage, I just drain the sump and put the oil back in the tank. Then start it up and run until warm then I change the oil and filter for the new riding season. I have never used a anti sump valve and have no intention to, I don't think it's necessary. JMO
 
My Mk3 wet sumps after every ride, so I have to drain crankcase 10-20ozs.
I installed an antisump spring loaded ball check to no avail.
I ride everyday.
Should I open up the excellent running engine and follow forum advice on what and how to fix?
Or install a ball valve?
 
My Mk3 wet sumps after every ride, so I have to drain crankcase 10-20ozs.
I installed an antisump spring loaded ball check to no avail.
I ride everyday.
Should I open up the excellent running engine and follow forum advice on what and how to fix?
Or install a ball valve?
If it's after every ride then yes you should fix it in my opinion
It should take several weeks to fill to an amount that needs draining before starting
 
If it's after every ride then yes you should fix it in my opinion
It should take several weeks to fill to an amount that needs draining before starting
Especially on a Mk III. The SS clone (Mk III running gear) wet sumps about an ounce a month when sitting. What about the AMR mod? Isn't that supposed to stem the flow?
 
Why trade a minor inconvenience for a potential catastrophic failure? Putting anything between the oil tank and the pump input is asking for big (read costly) trouble. The AMR mod is a much better way to go.
 
My Mk3 wet sumps after every ride, so I have to drain crankcase 10-20ozs.
I installed an antisump spring loaded ball check to no avail.
I ride everyday.
Should I open up the excellent running engine and follow forum advice on what and how to fix?
Or install a ball valve?

If the OEM set up in the Mk3 timing cover is not working and your oil pump is leaking like a sieve I would be very curious to the oil pressure range that bike covers from cold to hot at speed.
 
We fitted a Magneto guys unit to the 650ss and it works a treat - I think I mentioned it on a different thread.
anti sump failure..........(2015)
https://www.themagnetoguys.co.uk/oil-tap-with-cut-out-switch

They do a version of this for electronic ignitions, but it includes a relay.
That would probably stop me from using it, as you’d be wholly reliant upon keeping a tiny coil energised to keep the relay contacts close so you get power to your electronic ignition.
I don’t like that idea.



Just come to market is a unit from Feked.

This is a nicer, tidier, smaller version of that monstrosity that Iron John was trying to sell for silly money a couple of years ago.
anti sump failure..........(2015)
[URL]https://www.feked.com/anti-wet-sump-oil-pipe-tap-with-switch-magneto-or-coil-ignition-systems.html
[/URL]
This uses a standard micro switch, and is available in normally open or normally closed types, so does not rely on energising a relay.

I like this idea, and would have no issue using one on the Commando, or any other bike with electronic ignition.
If the switch ever fails, you cross the wires together to get you home.
 
Even Norton's that wet sump should not do it after every ride so there has to be a bigger problem with it, I be pulling the timing cover off it and check everything out to why, I don't know why you haven't done it as there could be more to it than just wet sumping, your oil pump is your bike's heart, you don't want it to have a heart attack.

Ashley
 
These in-line shutoff valves can cause a pump to lose its prime, as well as failure to open.
 
Why trade a minor inconvenience for a potential catastrophic failure? Putting anything between the oil tank and the pump input is asking for big (read costly) trouble. The AMR mod is a much better way to go.
This. Or a Mk III timing cover.
 
i know how you feel about anything in the suction line but as long as it is large enough to not be an obstruction along with an interlock so it wont start i have no issue. also i dont see the pump losing prime as once the valve is open it is gravity to it.

These in-line shutoff valves can cause a pump to lose its prime, as well as failure to open.
 
i know how you feel about anything in the suction line but as long as it is large enough to not be an obstruction along with an interlock so it wont start i have no issue. also i dont see the pump losing prime as once the valve is open it is gravity to it.

That’s true with a manually operated valve, not so with those spring loaded valves.
 
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