Another failed start

The bike has been progressively more difficult to start, I just assumed I was doing it wrong. Decided to see if I could tweak the timing a little. Took the points cover off and the "points plate" was a little loose. Fiddled with the timing and now it leaps to life.

Dang it this attended to decay must run in the genes of Norton owners. Wes and I got Trixie's wiring all working in factory minimalist functions and it started right up and idled down way to low and steady for engine health so we decided to fine tune timing by a light. It showed 5-8 degrees too advanced not to detonation on hot road going loads so tried to retard point some and spend 5 hr till dusk never getting it to start again. I stayed up to 2 am setting static timing via valve rockers loose to verifiy correct jug on compression for points being montitored by test light that comes on at instant points open. About to go try a start with wife to work throttle while I bend to aim time light. Hope mine works nices as your recovery.

i can start Trixie Combat in thin moccasins w/o pain but couldn't even put wt. on it after a few kicks out of time, even Wes in ridding boots got hurt on slight back fire a few times. Enough this is only time I ever heard Wes complain of fatque after impressive endurance events he does routinely riding through thick and thin and road side break downs we share. I want to get Trixie back to her one hand shove first time every time state she's had 3x's between various blow ups or deer take downs.

I need to get a timing light on it but I just adjusted it until it ran really nice. Doesn't take much to start it, hope I don't have it too advanced.

now that is the voice of seasoned Nortoneer, time light mostly just to see where it landed running best and then make marks so don't need no stinking timing light again.

hobot said:

now that is the voice of seasoned Nortoneer, time light mostly just to see where it landed running best and then make marks so don't need no stinking timing light again.

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How do I know if it's too advanced? Holed piston?

In a word "detonation". The best final timing check is to do a throttle roll-on in third gear from a slow speed going uphill. Back the timing off until it quits detonating. That way one can compensate for low-octance, altitude, etc. Not really relevant here but you should advance timing about 1/2 degree per 1000 feet in altitude, 2.5 degrees in Denver for instance. To me timing marks are a reference, detonation is the gospel. There are two limits of power: Detonation and piston speed.

MIke

swooshdave said:

hobot said:

now that is the voice of seasoned Nortoneer, time light mostly just to see where it landed running best and then make marks so don't need no stinking timing light again.

Click to expand...

How do I know if it's too advanced? Holed piston?

Click to expand...

Turn the lights out and see if the pipes glow. If it is really really advanced you won't need to turn the lights out to see.
I think blued pipes occur 15 to 20 seconds after first startups before the timing light can be applied. I know this first hand.

Mine is starting real good today. After 4 kicks to get going, started first kick everytime, almost too easy. Got 15 miles on it today on the pavement after electrical failure (old fixed wire) over winter. Mine should be right around 28°.

Dave
69S

Put on boots to try the by the manual static setting and got nothing but tired to quick. Back out in a bit to suffer some more loss of self image.

At my age, I don't need any knee replacements, thanks. It's working fine for me and seems to be running strong.

Dave
69S

With my electrics, I cut out all the connectors and solder joined all wires and heat shrinked.

With my boyer timing, from what I can gather of the process, setting the 31 BTDC on the crank, then adjusting the sensor plate to suit, it will kick like a Bi'arch, when I put the timing light on and check the spark at idle was going in at about 25-26 BTDC, and about 40+ at 5K RPM.

After adjusting, i.e. retarding quite considerably, at idle the spark was going in at about 10-15 BTDC, and at 5K was at pretty much the set 31 BTDC.

So, to me, when the bike is kicking back, turn the contact plate / sensor plate counter clockwise a little and it will save you a sore leg.