And then it stopped running.

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sole survivor said:
concours said:
Bottoming out... 8) can be avoided by checking the bolt threads visually. The tap used to create the threads has a taper, so the tapped hole has some imperfect threads near the bottom, they roll over the top of the bolt threads, or at least disturb the finish, depending on how tight it was turned. So, in case like this, a NEW, DIFFERENT bolt should be checked before calling it good. A seasoned veteran mechanic can ususally feel that the tightening is more progressive than normal. However, in the case of the ifnition rotor being TAPERED all bets are off regarding "feel", it feels different than an ordinary bolting joint. Glad you were able to laugh, after the cursing subsided! :lol: Just a tidbit to share with up-and-coming mechanics. :wink:
This is interesting. I with the Trispark I received 4 bolts. Some longer than others but all had the same thread pitch/design. I notice that mounting the magnet only allows maybe just two turns of the allen head bolt. This doesn't seem much to me.
But when I remove the magnet the bolt will screw all the way in snug. I may 'oil' down the second longest allen bolt to thread deeper as I can see the threads look to appears to go for 3/4 of an inch inside the cam. What did/would you do?

I would thread the LONGEST bolt you have in fingertight, and see if it bottoms. Go to the next shorter one if needed. But VERIFY the thread engagement you have.... two turns is NOT enough. The old rule of thumb is 1.5 times the bolt diameter MINIMUM. If you have 3/4" of hole depth, it's safe to estimate at least 1/2" of usable threads.
 
I believe the different sets of bolts included with ignition kits are 1/4-26 cycle thread as was factory stock and 1/4-28 thread for the currently available cams (Megacycle etc).
 
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