And then it stopped running.

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sole survivor

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I went on a good 60 mile ride today. 1 mile from home is a 2 mile straightaway so naturally I put the hammer down. I shifted into 2nd and lost power. No noise. No pop. Came coasting to a stop. Getting fuel. But it wouldn't start.Threw her in the back of my pickup. Did the usual tests. Spark. Fine. Drain oil to inspect for metal chunks. Clean.

Open up timing inspection cover and rotate engine until Trispark Light comes on. WTF? Timing mark is at least 20 degrees before TDC. Did I skip a tooth in the timing chain? Is there a timing chain like a car?
 
There is a timing chain but if it were loose enough to be skipping teeth I think you would hear it and your timing would be pretty shaky. Might even tangle some valves. I am not sure there is physically enough room for it to skip a tooth without jamming on something else. I would be more suspect of the rotor for the Tri Spark moving.

Russ
 
rvich said:
There is a timing chain but if it were loose enough to be skipping teeth I think you would hear it and your timing would be pretty shaky. Might even tangle some valves. I am not sure there is physically enough room for it to skip a tooth without jamming on something else. I would be more suspect of the rotor for the Tri Spark moving.

Russ
Click to expand...
Would that be the magnet behind the Trispark?
 
L.A.B. said:
sole survivor said:
Open up timing inspection cover and rotate engine until Trispark Light comes on. WTF? Timing mark is at least 20 degrees before TDC.
Click to expand...

The Tri-Spark module light should come on when the crank reaches 28 degrees BTDC (Full advance).

http://www.trispark.com.au/images/Class ... 20Inst.pdf
Click to expand...

It was spot on 28 degrees BTDC. It just changed today. Always started on 1st kick. Add a kick each week it sat.

But it ran perfect.
 
Confirm that the rotor has not slipped and that the mount screw is properly snugged. Taper HAS to be perfectly clean.
 
Confirm that the rotor has not slipped and that the mount screw is properly snugged. Taper HAS to be perfectly clean.
Click to expand...

what Peter said above, some movement in there seems to have changed your spark firing timing

in fact, you may want to take the trispark including rotor out of there and start over with a fresh installation
 
Intermittent electrical open circuit? Like... kill switch, ignition switch, battery leads, etc. Remember to put oil in it before trying to start! :mrgreen: Just freindly reminder. Sometimes when things get hectic... you know. I use sticky notes on the dashboard (clocks)
 
Same thing happened to me with my old Sparx EI....crusing along at 70 mph and then...suddenly...went dead and coasted to a stop. FWIW check you magnet module of your EI, turned out mine had flown apart...might be something to look at.
 
It happened to me once.
Rolling down the interstate about 75mph. the bike just stopped.
I did the usual checks and everything was fine.

Turns out.........
I had some keys on my keychain along with the ignition key, the combined weight was
just enough that they jiggled and shut the bike off.

I put the ignition key on it's own key ring and have never had the issue again.
whodathinkit!
 
Mark said:
It happened to me once.
Rolling down the interstate about 75mph. the bike just stopped.
I did the usual checks and everything was fine.

Turns out.........
I had some keys on my keychain along with the ignition key, the combined weight was
just enough that they jiggled and shut the bike off.

I put the ignition key on it's own key ring and have never had the issue again.
whodathinkit!
Click to expand...

Such good ideas. I'll pull it apart in the morning. I only use one key to start/run the bike. I'll check the magnet. It seems to have lost its timing. I'll let you know what I find. And..I will find it and pass it along.
 
pvisseriii said:
Confirm that the rotor has not slipped and that the mount screw is properly snugged. Taper HAS to be perfectly clean.
Click to expand...

This would be my first port of call too, having had a similar problem with a Boyer on my T140 some years back...
I eventually discovered that the bolt was bottoming out before the rotor was properly clamped.
I did laugh.

Eventually
 
Funny, I had my old Mopar E-ignition distributor do the same, it was the mechanical advance gubbins that let go [after 35 years!] so, confusingly, there was still spark, but the timing was awry...
 
Hi Sirs,
a time ago my Commando did not want to leave, I turned the ignition key and the current comes to spark plugs but if I used the starter lever was not accepted current to the sparks plugs and the bike wouldn't start.
What happened?.
The little steel ball in the handlebar switch was stranded and sent negative grounded!.
Ciao
Piero
Italy
 
rvich said:
I would be more suspect of the rotor for the Tri Spark moving.

Russ
Click to expand...

Bingo. That rotor was as loose as a hammered Texas floozy(don't ask how I know but I suspect some of you do also). So I cleaned out cam threads, applied a small bit of loctite blue and tightened her down. I'll give the loctite a few hours to cure and set final timing.

Thank you Russ and for all your guys suggestions.

I have a question. Do you guys have the same feeling as I do when my commando stops running? Or is down for repairs?

I do. When she is back up and running again my life seems to be a little bit easier. :D
 
Especially when it starts up when you're trying to make a clean get away from the floozy.
 
B+Bogus said:
pvisseriii said:
Confirm that the rotor has not slipped and that the mount screw is properly snugged. Taper HAS to be perfectly clean.
Click to expand...

This would be my first port of call too, having had a similar problem with a Boyer on my T140 some years back...
I eventually discovered that the bolt was bottoming out before the rotor was properly clamped.
I did laugh.

Eventually
Click to expand...

Bottoming out... 8) can be avoided by checking the bolt threads visually. The tap used to create the threads has a taper, so the tapped hole has some imperfect threads near the bottom, they roll over the top of the bolt threads, or at least disturb the finish, depending on how tight it was turned. So, in case like this, a NEW, DIFFERENT bolt should be checked before calling it good. A seasoned veteran mechanic can ususally feel that the tightening is more progressive than normal. However, in the case of the ifnition rotor being TAPERED all bets are off regarding "feel", it feels different than an ordinary bolting joint. Glad you were able to laugh, after the cursing subsided! :lol: Just a tidbit to share with up-and-coming mechanics. :wink:
 
concours said:
B+Bogus said:
pvisseriii said:
Confirm that the rotor has not slipped and that the mount screw is properly snugged. Taper HAS to be perfectly clean.
Click to expand...

This would be my first port of call too, having had a similar problem with a Boyer on my T140 some years back...
I eventually discovered that the bolt was bottoming out before the rotor was properly clamped.
I did laugh.

Eventually
Click to expand...

Bottoming out... 8) can be avoided by checking the bolt threads visually. The tap used to create the threads has a taper, so the tapped hole has some imperfect threads near the bottom, they roll over the top of the bolt threads, or at least disturb the finish, depending on how tight it was turned. So, in case like this, a NEW, DIFFERENT bolt should be checked before calling it good. A seasoned veteran mechanic can ususally feel that the tightening is more progressive than normal. However, in the case of the ifnition rotor being TAPERED all bets are off regarding "feel", it feels different than an ordinary bolting joint. Glad you were able to laugh, after the cursing subsided! :lol: Just a tidbit to share with up-and-coming mechanics. :wink:
Click to expand...
This is interesting. I with the Trispark I received 4 bolts. Some longer than others but all had the same thread pitch/design. I notice that mounting the magnet only allows maybe just two turns of the allen head bolt. This doesn't seem much to me.
But when I remove the magnet the bolt will screw all the way in snug. I may 'oil' down the second longest allen bolt to thread deeper as I can see the threads look to appears to go for 3/4 of an inch inside the cam. What did/would you do?
 
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