Amal Gasket Question

Status
Not open for further replies.
H

Hungry J0e

Joined
Apr 28, 2008
Messages
191
Country flag
Took off my Amal's to clean out the pilot jet (and one was indeed pretty clogged up).

In addition to the O-Ring, there was a gasket between the carb and the spacer/manifold connected to the head. Is that supposed to be there? My parts diagram shows just the O-ring.

Also any tips for extending the ticklers a bit? I pulled on them, but didn't seem to provide any extension.

Thanks!

- HJ
 
My carb only has the o-ring between the carb and the manifold. No washer. There is the thick heat washer between the manifold and the head.

Dave
69S
 
swooshdave said:
Do you not have the extended ticklers? Available from Amal or most dealers
Click to expand...

I *think* so. Hard for me to know as I'm not sure what the non-extended ticklers look like. In any case, they have a flared roll pin on the bottom (bowl side) and a big old button on the top side.

Cheers,

- HJ
 
Hungry J0e said:
swooshdave said:
Do you not have the extended ticklers? Available from Amal or most dealers
Click to expand...

I *think* so. Hard for me to know as I'm not sure what the non-extended ticklers look like. In any case, they have a flared roll pin on the bottom (bowl side) and a big old button on the top side.

Cheers,

- HJ
Click to expand...

Well the old buttons could not be consider "big" so I guess you're covered.
 
Hungry J0e said:
In addition to the O-Ring, there was a gasket between the carb and the spacer/manifold connected to the head. Is that supposed to be there? My parts diagram shows just the O-ring.
Click to expand...

The extra gasket/s won't do any harm.

Hungry J0e said:
Also any tips for extending the ticklers a bit? I pulled on them, but didn't seem to provide any extension.
Click to expand...


The extended tickler assembly:
Amal Gasket Question

If both button and pin are held (with two pairs of pliers?) and twisted, it should be possible to extend the pin?

Adjust it to give roughly 5/16" of ticker button movement.
 
Hungry J0e said:
Also any tips for extending the ticklers a bit? I pulled on them, but didn't seem to provide any extension.

- HJ
Click to expand...

Ok, back to the original question, why do you want to extend the ticklers?
 
swooshdave said:
Float level is not set with the ticklers.
Click to expand...

Right, but lowered the float level a bit and it would no longer tickle...

My bike is very finicky about the float level. A tad high and leaks from the float gasket. Tad low and it won't tickle.
 
If your carbs are leaking from the bowl gaskets, the float bowls might be warped. Check across the mounting screw lugs with a straight edge.

Greg
 
My bike is very finicky about the float level. A tad high and leaks from the float gasket. Tad low and it won't tickle.

You can extend the reach of the tickler by screwing a self tapper into the bottom end, adjust by screwing in or out. First set the float level as per the Amal website and then adjust the tickler to suit the new float level.
 
Main reason for going to the pushbutton ticklers is that you don't get fuel on your finger.
 
batrider said:
Main reason for going to the pushbutton ticklers is that you don't get fuel on your finger.
Click to expand...

Yes - and you don't get water in the float chambers either.

It does sound like adjusting the float levels isn't necessarily fixing the root cause of the problem....I'd also be looking at warped float chambers as they're famous for it ;)
 
I'll lap the tops of the bowls... have to pull them anyways as the left cylinder is no longer firing. Perhaps I introduced an air leak on reassembly and is now too lean? Good spark, didn't touch ignition at all, only pulled and cleaned the carbs...

Good news is the right cylinder starts easily on one kick. Even idles like a dream on one cylinder...

Cheers,

HJ
 
When you lap the bowl seating area flat and then place it on the body, you will probably find that the body seating surface is also warped - that needs to be trued also. You can do it with a fine file. While you are doing this, lap all the other carb/manifold surfaces as well, including the manifold surface where it joins the head. It will make a big improvement in the operation of the carb. Do not tighten any of the screws beyond "snug" and for the joint between the manifold and carb - with the Oring - just tighten the bolts to the point where the two metal surfaces meet, no more.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

D
How I finally got my primary chaincase cover leak free !
Replies
7
Views
249
DennisMo
D
C
Extremely vexxing idle/low RPM issue
2
Replies
38
Views
1,236
acotrel
acotrel
lazyeye6
Amal problem
Replies
3
Views
167
lazyeye6
lazyeye6
o0norton0o
I learned to steal
2
Replies
20
Views
607
acotrel
acotrel
WEM
Rough first start for the season
Replies
16
Views
641
trappnman
trappnman
Back
Top