Amal float problems

Guys,
Any tips for setting float levels?

My left carb started to leak out throught the tickler. I took the carb apart cleaned it, inspected the float, pin and brass seat. Checked the tickler is retracting properly. All looked good so I set the level (at 0.08" below the rim) and reassembled it but it still flooded out the tickler. I reset the level a few times, tried lower higher but it keeps flooding.

Went to shop, and I replaced the float with the "stay up" type. Decked the bowls against emery on a flat surface to make them true. Reset the level but still leaks. Tried setting the level a little higher and lower but still leaks.

Back to shop. Then I replaced the bowl (and brass seat) new brass type rubber tipped valve/pin, trimmed the gasket to make sure nothing was interferring. Set the level and still flooding. Not as bad but out of the air clearer.

Around this point I started swearing.

Am I missing something? It seems if I set the level the correct height they flood. If I lower the level the bowl doesnt fill. Maybe the ticker is causing the float to bind?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Kyle

More expert advice will probably arrive soon, but I find the gas level (not the float level) in the bowl is correct at the point of the washer that goes between the bowl screw and the bowl itself. Measuring the float level was either too hard for me, or not so meaningful, I can't remember. :roll:
I measured that distance just now, to be about 0.20"
I use an extra plastic bowl drain bolt, drilled and tapped to accept a brass (compressed air fitting) fitting elbow, with a clear pc of plastic tubing 6.5" long attached to the brass barb, the tubing bent upwards to simulate a sight gauge. It's not perfect 'cause the carb is not level when mounted, but if you have the carb off anyway...
I think if you got the level right, and it still leaks, you have a different issue. Are you certain the float itself is good? I've tossed 2 that leaked.

Hopefully not what is going on in your case but when I bought my bike the PO had installed new floats and they were slightly too wide, this lead to intermittent overflows when tickling the carbs and in one case a fire resulted when the overflowing gas collected in the split loom the PO had installed on the alternator wires :shock: (I put it out before it became disastrous)
Anyway I eventually figured out what the problem was, filed the floats down a bit at the pivot and no problems since then.

I have the same problem on one of my bikes.

Replaced float needles with viton tip versions, still happening.
Set the float level low in the problem carb, still happening.
Replaced gaskets with genuine Amal thick gaskets didn't help either.
Ground the bowl surface flat also.
The only thing I could figure is some binding is occurring.

It is very frustrating because it seems like it should be so easy, although the problem hasn't been found…….yet.

I'm following this with interest since I have one that drools while running. No problem when parked.

Is this happening with the bike on the side stand or also on the centre stand. Maybe if it's only doing it on the side stand it could be the right hand needle and seat leaking and the fual going through the common fuel hose and leaking out the left carby i.e. point of least resistance. Let us know. Even with a new float needle it can still leak if the seat is dirty, simple check is the blow through the fuel inlet and hold the float in the closed position, you will soon detect if it's not sealing. Other posts are correct the tickler can stick down from dirt or gumming or even a slight bent part. The mechanism is pretty simple so your solution is probably staring you in the face.

I had one that did that, but it was a bad seat for the needle. You can take the bowls off, mount them on the edge of a flat plate with a 10-32 machine screw just so the pivot is held in place and attach a fuel line to it and see that the needle actually does stop the flow of fuel. You can also set the float level that way and actually see in in action. Use alcohol if you don't want gas all over the place.

The "correct" gaskets sold by Amal are prone to foul the float.

Is it possible to refinish the seat with a special tool and lapping compound? What tool?

DogT said:

I had one that did that, but it was a bad seat for the needle. You can take the bowls off, mount them on the edge of a flat plate with a 10-32 machine screw just so the pivot is held in place and attach a fuel line to it and see that the needle actually does stop the flow of fuel. You can also set the float level that way and actually see in in action. Use alcohol if you don't want gas all over the place.

Click to expand...

Exactly. I did something similar with a piece of plexiglass to hold the float pin down.





You can fill the bowl and observe what's happening. If it doesn't leak like this then something's amiss with the carb body or gasket.

Here is how I did the fuel level check while mounted.
The fuel level can be seen in the tube almost even with the bowl screw head.

Mr. Rick said:

More expert advice will probably arrive soon, but I find the gas level (not the float level) in the bowl is correct at the point of the washer that goes between the bowl screw and the bowl itself. Measuring the float level was either too hard for me, or not so meaningful, I can't remember. :roll:
I measured that distance just now, to be about 0.20"
I use an extra plastic bowl drain bolt, drilled and tapped to accept a brass (compressed air fitting) fitting elbow, with a clear pc of plastic tubing 6.5" long attached to the brass barb, the tubing bent upwards to simulate a sight gauge. It's not perfect 'cause the carb is not level when mounted, but if you have the carb off anyway...
I think if you got the level right, and it still leaks, you have a different issue. Are you certain the float itself is good? I've tossed 2 that leaked.

Click to expand...

Just queried amal about this, response was that the angle of the carb is not really important, as long as you're taking your fuel level measurement from the middle of the bowl (as this is where the jets are)

Thanks, Acadian, for checking on this. One thing less (fewer?) to obsess over, that's good!
Anyone ever try to refinish the seat, as elefantrider suggested?

Yes, I re-ground the seat in my leaky carb. I used a piece of aluminum rod about the same diameter as the needle valve, tapered it to the same angle as the needle valve and used some lapping compound on it. You can also buy new seats. I'm sure lapping it is sort of hit or miss, I happened to get lucky. The real seats have a square face, not tapered.

I think someone had been into the bad seat I had with a drill bit, at least that's what it looked like.

If you do it, you'll want to check it out real good though.

Floats and needles functioned properly here. No leakage on the centerstand with the fuel tap ON. But after a ride, the whole side of the left carb is wet.

I think mine has some grit or dried fuel deposits on the seat. Will try to polish it up with a Dremel if I can find a good soft drill bit at my hobby store.

Will try this to clean the seat.





Dremel's 537 tool.

elefantrider said:

Will try this to clean the seat.

Dremel's 537 tool.

Click to expand...

Used the same wire brush on mine. I kept the area wet with cutting oil. Worked great and solved an annoying problem.