Alternator upgrade

Hi Guys,

I discovered last night that I am in possession of the early "exploding alternator rotor" in the early stages of disintegration (loose center tube). So I am shopping for a new rotor, which leads me to question how I am going to feed this thing.

I have a Boyer MKIII, dual 6v PVL coils and a 60/55 halogen headlight, my wiring harness is new repo. I would like to run the bike without the 5 pounds of lead/acid under my butt. I understand that I need 10.8v to keep the Boyer behaving.

I came upon the Sparx 3 phase set up - would this provide enough power at kick to keep things in order?

Would this be sufficient power to realistically run a without a battery- is running without a batt realistic expectation?

Thanks
Phil

phil

I would NOT run ANY electronic eig. without a battery. I have the sparks setup and rita on my bike and it is better than the stock setup with easy starting and NO dead batterys. for ease of starting with the boyer being voltage sensetive you should run some kind of battery. one guy here uses small UPS style of batterys on his bikes but they are BSA's :roll: so they dont count :lol: .

bill

Boyer makes a "power box" which replaces the stock rectifier/regulator and is supposed to allow you to run the system without a battery. I put one on my 64 featherlastic, and it starts, sometimes reluctantly, but runs well with some exceptions. When idling, if you activate the brake light, the current draw is sufficient to reduce voltage to the boyer, causing the engine to stall. If the machine happens to idle down too much, the engine stalls. Became very annoying, so I installed a small UPS type battery about six months ago and so far it has worked fine. Still using stock Lucas alternator.

Randy

64 featherlastic

I rewired my Combat, upgraded to a Podtronics regulator, have always used a Boyer and changed too a Yuasa ytx5l battery that is about 4 lbs., with the standard alternator, and use 100/55 light bulb with no problem yet. The light runs through a relay for safty sakes. Use a battery as per Bill's reasoning.
Jerry

Thanks for the input, every bit helps.

I figure the Sparx 3 phase unit will give me plenty of power for idling and charging (10amps, 140watts @2000rpm) - but does the alternator generate enough juice to "wake" a Boyer unit so as not to misfire... any guesses on rpm from an average kick? :?

http://www.sparxelectrical.com/Products.htm
Phil

fastback

as stated below RUN A SMALL BATTERY!!!! a boyer is WAY to voltage sensetive. a small UPS type battery is fine but you NEED a battery to help with rapid current draw like a brake light or turning on your headlight and for ease of starting

(Boyer makes a "power box" which replaces the stock rectifier/regulator and is supposed to allow you to run the system without a battery. I put one on my 64 featherlastic, and it starts, sometimes reluctantly, but runs well with some exceptions. When idling, if you activate the brake light, the current draw is sufficient to reduce voltage to the boyer, causing the engine to stall. If the machine happens to idle down too much, the engine stalls. Became very annoying, so I installed a small UPS type battery about six months ago and so far it has worked fine. Still using stock Lucas alternator.)

bill

Alrighty then,

I will take the path of least resistance (pun intended) and pop in a battery. Would you suggest a D cell or a AAA? :wink:

I don't really hate batteries (well ok I do), I end up babysitting them for 6 months of the year and have been doing so for 20 years.. the thought of avoiding this ritual clouded my judgment. :?

Any recommendations on a sealed unit?

Anybody interested in an unused Podtronics single phase rectifier/regulator? Make me an offer I can't re-fuse.

Phil

fastback
try this link it should help you
http://www.batterycanada.com/UPS-Battery.asp

bill

If you do everything else right a 2.2 amp hr battery will do the deal. It' the first one without a picture in this list in the link provided by Bill. The size is like two packs of smokes put together. Anyway this is what all the Triumph guys do for thier little 500 vintage dirt bikes. norbsa

I think 2.2 AmpHr is the one I use on my featherlastic. Bring out a pair of wires from the battery terminals to a convenient location, then plug in a battery tender Jr. whenever the bike is not being used. It will keep the battery charged and ready for use. No other maintenance required.

Fastback
Just an option for you, batteryweb.com.
Their prices and service are excellent. The Yuasa YTX5L-BS which is 4.5x2.8x4.3 high and 4lbs for $40, is what I usually recommend for general replacement and custom applications that require Velocity stacks with filters attached, ie. Del'Ortos, along with central oil tanks, etc.

I agree with most all on this subject, however, I would stress an aftermarket rectifier/regulator and a custom minimal harness that gets rid of all the Interpol and other redundent wires and associated parts.
Good luck
Jerry

Thanks for the advice!