Alternatives to OEM indicators (turn signals)

robs ss

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A riding friend has just had a failure of a new part from AN. It's the number plate/ indicator mount at the rear.
Definitely something wrong with the part, but the weight/length of the indicators definitely won't be helping.

Has anyone here bought good quality, lightweight, LED indicators that look something like OEM ones? If so, where did you get them?

My friend will be forever grateful.
Cheers
 
I had the same failure, the indicator bracket was fastened to the numberplate bracket with only 3 spot welds! I see the latest ones are shown as 'strengthened' and are fully welded. five minutes with a welder had mine sorted.
 
LED bulbs in original flasher housings. LED in tach and speedo. LED headlamp. CNW tail light conversion, which is LED as well.
I sourced everything except the CNW stuff from Paul Goff...http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/
 
Around 10 years ago my turn signal bracket broke. So I welded the bracket back together and then made a turn signal reinforcement mount from a piece of 3/4 inch diameter 6061-T6 aluminum bar. The bar is cut to fit between the turn signal mounting brackets and I drilled and tapped the bar 7/16 x 20 UNF. Finally I milled a 7/16 inch wide slot in the middle of the bar about an inch long so that the wires can easily pass.

Once installed the turn signals are really steady and there is no flexing at all in the bracket. Additionally I have not had any problems with the turn signals loosening and this is without using any Loctite. This modification has held up really well.


Alternatives to OEM indicators (turn signals)


Peter Firkins
 
That's a great solution and I will be adding that to the one I'm building now. Regarding the turn signals, I got a set of the Emgo ones recently - plastic bulb holders so quite light. Very cheap at $20 for a pair.
 
N
Around 10 years ago my turn signal bracket broke. So I welded the bracket back together and then made a turn signal reinforcement mount from a piece of 3/4 inch diameter 6061-T6 aluminum bar. The bar is cut to fit between the turn signal mounting brackets and I drilled and tapped the bar 7/16 x 20 UNF. Finally I milled a 7/16 inch wide slot in the middle of the bar about an inch long so that the wires can easily pass.

Once installed the turn signals are really steady and there is no flexing at all in the bracket. Additionally I have not had any problems with the turn signals loosening and this is without using any Loctite. This modification has held up really well.


View attachment 94279

Peter Firkins
Nicely done.
 
Here is the one I built for my Commando.Alternatives to OEM indicators (turn signals)Alternatives to OEM indicators (turn signals)carved it out of an aluminum bar to fit the tail light bracket and the fender.
 
Around 10 years ago my turn signal bracket broke. So I welded the bracket back together and then made a turn signal reinforcement mount from a piece of 3/4 inch diameter 6061-T6 aluminum bar. The bar is cut to fit between the turn signal mounting brackets and I drilled and tapped the bar 7/16 x 20 UNF. Finally I milled a 7/16 inch wide slot in the middle of the bar about an inch long so that the wires can easily pass.

Once installed the turn signals are really steady and there is no flexing at all in the bracket. Additionally I have not had any problems with the turn signals loosening and this is without using any Loctite. This modification has held up really well.


View attachment 94279

Peter Firkins
I really like that solution. I think my riding mate, @Mk111guy , will too!
For those of us with only hand tools it would seem possible to find a piece of steel tube (of the correct length) and drive the nuts into either end (probably spot-weld them in place) and drill a hole it the middle for the wires to come out.

Structurally, your fix is excellent.

I think it would definitely fit under "up there for thinking, down there for dancing!"
Cheers
 
Around 10 years ago my turn signal bracket broke. So I welded the bracket back together and then made a turn signal reinforcement mount from a piece of 3/4 inch diameter 6061-T6 aluminum bar. The bar is cut to fit between the turn signal mounting brackets and I drilled and tapped the bar 7/16 x 20 UNF. Finally I milled a 7/16 inch wide slot in the middle of the bar about an inch long so that the wires can easily pass.

Once installed the turn signals are really steady and there is no flexing at all in the bracket. Additionally I have not had any problems with the turn signals loosening and this is without using any Loctite. This modification has held up really well.


View attachment 94279

Peter Firkins
Just finished fitting a copy of your's to my mate's Mk3.
Used stainless tube instead of your aluminium - but same deal.
Works brilliantly.
You, AN, RGM or someone really should market this as it really does address a weakness of that rear plate.
Thanks again and Cheers!
 
Just finished fitting a copy of your's to my mate's Mk3.
Used stainless tube instead of your aluminium - but same deal.
Works brilliantly.
You, AN, RGM or someone really should market this as it really does address a weakness of that rear plate.
Thanks again and Cheers!
Yes they should. Are you listening AN, RGM??
 
Neither is the long RGM kickstarter - but its good!
Your point is?
 
LED bulbs in original flasher housings. LED in tach and speedo. LED headlamp. CNW tail light conversion, which is LED as well.
I sourced everything except the CNW stuff from Paul Goff...http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/
British Cycle also has those bulbs. If you do the turn signal bulbs you will need a turn signal relay for LED bulbs, also if you want the indicator in the headlight to work properly you will need to use 2 diodes, one from each side goes to the indicator bulb and the other wire from the bulb to ground.
 
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