Adding chokes to my Amals

I believe I have my carburetors set just right; runs quite nicely. Starting and keeping running, even in hot weather, is too lean. Chokes were removed when I bought the MK III over 30 years ago and when the carbs were set too rich it wasn't so much a problem. I'd like to be able to start and have it keep running on its own without blipping the throttle for a few minutes. It starts and idles quite nicely when hot - would idle until it runs out of gas. The part throttle stumble I always thought was a carburetor issue went away when I put the Pazon Altair on, so it seems they have the better advance curve.

If I can find the complete setup are there any cons to putting chokes on? It would seem that if the factory put them on there was a reason.

Thanks

I have four brit bikes two with chokes two without. Basically they are more trouble than they are worth to me. As you point out useful only during run up to get past the cold period without blipping. That takes a minute or two at most so no need for me.
Just another cable to deal with.

You'll get differing opinions on that. Lots of folks remove them, but I figure as you said that they were put there for a reason. They do aid cold starts. I use them all the time. JMO

+1 for no chokes never had a starting issue once the carbs have been flooded

+1 for adding chokes, tickling will get the engine started but adding choke stops the annoying stalls on the long 400m track I have before hitting the tarmac. Essential when I was using the Bike for the commute to and from work on frosty mornings.

I think they have intrinsic value cold starting, but have to be opened almost immediately after starting and don't seem to be able to be set partial to allow idle when cold. Mine are still in on both bikes, but I'll be migrating to Keihin's eventually

kommando said:

+1 for adding chokes, tickling will get the engine started but adding choke stops the annoying stalls on the long 400m track I have before hitting the tarmac. Essential when I was using the Bike for the commute to and from work on frosty mornings.

Click to expand...

Having the choke available as an option seems worth while. I would not take them off if they were fitted. Mikuni chokes are essential when strating my Norton...because...no ticklers!

But I would like to see a list of those on here who ever do a commute on a frosty morning on their Commando with Amals!

I think it would be quite short!

I also find them useful for main jet checking, if you are at full throttle then closing the choke slightly should slow you down, if you speed up then your main jet is too small.

I for one use the choke. I will ride my bike in cool spring and fall days. That is when you need them. Hot summer days not so. I can say this much, that the choke saved me from a trip on a flatbed from CAA. It was the hottest Summer in July on a Friday the 13t in Port Dover when my throttle cable let go. I use my choke cable by swapping out the throttle to get me home. Had to take the tank off and disassemble the Amal tops then put it all back together. But the time I spent doing that I would still be waiting for the tow vehicle to show up in that town on that day.

I have choke bodies on my commando. I never use them. I just do what others have said, I flood the carbs with the bleeders and the bike starts right up. I don't idle my bike when it's not warmed up. I start it when I'm ready to go, then I go.... I do this because of what I've been told about cam/follower/engine wear that occurs at cold idle and start up. The theory being it's better to get the oil flowing fast by riding, then let the bike warm up before you go...

As far as idling until it runs out of fuel goes, my bike has an ammeter and below about 1800 rpms the bike is draining the battery. Eventually, that will make my bike stall. I sat idling at an "accident scene" one day as the tow truck was clearing the crashed vehicles. After idling for probably over 10 minutes with my ammeter into the negative zone, my bike coughed and died. I turned it off and waited for the flagman to give us the signal to go and then I kicked the bike back to life. The ammeter needle was into the positive direction for the next 10 minutes that it took to restore the surface charge to the battery.

IMO, Norton commandos aren't designed to idle for long periods of time. If you have the 3 phase alternator, set a relatively high idle and the best oil money can buy, maybe they could "idle all day long, til they run out of fuel", but that's not a goal of mine to achieve.

I often wonder if I could start another person's commando, who swears by using the chokes, (with amals) by using the technique which I use to start my commando, or if his bike is set up differently so he absolutely does need the chokes... Hard to know the answer to that without testing it.

I removed the choke from the Amal on my '70 Tiger 17 years ago. I tickle the carb and it starts 1st kick 98% of the time. I massage
the throttle for about 3 minutes until it will maintain idle and then I go.

If my bike coughed and died after idling for 10 minutes due to a low battery, I'd get a new battery or get rid of that Boyer.

o0norton0o said:

IMO, Norton commandos aren't designed to idle for long periods of time. If you have the 3 phase alternator, set a relatively high idle and the best oil money can buy, maybe they could "idle all day long, til they run out of fuel", but that's not a goal of mine to achieve.

Click to expand...

The intent of that comment was not that you should idle a Commando until it runs out of fuel (for the multiple reasons pointed out) but rather than he feels he has a nice steady idle.

lazyeye6 said:

If my bike coughed and died after idling for 10 minutes due to a low battery, I'd get a new battery or get rid of that Boyer.

Click to expand...

Ha ha, The battery is new. I actually think that maybe the rotor has lost some of it's magnetism, so it's only strong enough to keep the bike charging at higher rpms. I'm happy with both boyer boxes I've used too.

My commando has a nice steady idle when it's warmed up too, but it wouldn't idle for long with the chokes on... and neither would anyone else's commando. The choke is something that helps cold starting, but it seems that not every commando is set up to need choke levers on their carb. Certainly, I only know my own bike's set up well enough to report my own experience. Perhaps I've just learned to use a starting procedure that doesn't require the use of the chokes, when I could actually use them in a beneficial way if I knew that procedure.

I don't need to use them, so I leave them where they are. It's just one less thing to break.

My 750 didn’t have a choke when I got it And cold starting was hit and miss.
I refitted it and cold starting is one or two kicks without having to re- flood the carbs If starting failed the first time.
In my experience, You can use the choke to give a cold tick over but you have to synchronise them just like the slides. Having said that, the commando warms up fast and then you have to take the choke off pronto. I got all the carb parts from Amal and the cable from Venhill was spot on.

Removed chokes from new premiers when i got them a few years ago. Cold running was very sketchy with hesitation and uneven response for first five minutes. Idle was also rough until warmed up.
Changed pilot jet from 17 to19 and all cold running problems disappeared. Starts first or second kick when cold after good tickle.

One for Admin.... with these kind of items polarising folks views....can polls be run???

I run without slides, my buddy had a choke cable bust and dropped the slides not good as cable is under tension when open, a good tickle and bingo she fires up, I have a throttle adjuster and screw in a tad to give a fast idle while I'm getting my kit on a nd 5hen she's good to go.

All my British bikes run without chokes, because the one time I fitted chokes on one of them, it went ´south’ for two reasons.

1) The choke set up on the Amal is pretty stupid: during normal operation (99,9999% of the life of your bike), their spring is compressed thus pulling on the cable and lever. Quite often after a while, the choke will not remain 100% up/open during normal engine operation, causing one or both cylinders to run rich, as well as unbalance between the two cylinders. Pretty daft and useless, but that is the lesser of the two potential issues.

2) The serious issue is that if/when the choke cable or lever fails while the engine is running, the bike is stuck flodded on the side of the road, where then you have to remove the whole system to get restarted after cleaning the plugs as well. Happened to me in the winter under a drizzle: NEVER AGAIN.

I want to stress that my Norton is my main mean of transportation, all year long, everyday. It starts first kick cold or hot, and as said above, idling a cold British twin is a -very- bad idea. Get ready, open petrol tap, tickle both carbs until first drops come out, one kick, engage first gear and go.

Chalk it up to freedom of choice

I had the choke cable break dropping the choke and taking out a cylinder due to pressing on home on the good one.
Tickle, kick twice, turn on ignition kick hard and away you go.