Abandoned Commando 850 Slow-Burn Rebuild Thread

L.A.B.

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Perhaps they were building both mk2 & mk2a at the same time?

Yes, they were.
The Mk2 was the US market model and the low noise emission Mk2A was the European market model. As it has been established beyond doubt that Nhaber04's Commando is a Mk2 I would, however, remind members this is a rebuild thread.
 
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Thanks for the info, now it all makes a bit more sense.
it will be really good to see how his rebuild goes.
 
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It'll make a sweet one. Those windshields are easy enough to find used in excellent shape for 50 and less with patience.

I wish I could stumble across a nice project like that.
 
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So I got a front wheel from the member UtahProf on here (thanks again!)

I was waiting to update this until I got the original front wheel off and the new one on, but I cannot for the life of me get the axle off. I have removed the pinch bolt and the nut, I have sprayed PB blaster on it every day for over a week, I have heated it with a torch, I have hit it with an array of hammers with wood (and broken several pieces of wood). Any tricks for removing a super seized axle or anything I'm missing?
 
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So I got a front wheel from the member UtahProf on here (thanks again!)

I was waiting to update this until I got the original front wheel off and the new one on, but I cannot for the life of me get the axle off. I have removed the pinch bolt and the nut, I have sprayed PB blaster on it every day for over a week, I have heated it with a torch, I have hit it with an array of hammers with wood (and broken several pieces of wood). Any tricks for removing a super seized axle or anything I'm missing?
I had this problem with a stuck front wheel axle.
Turned out that the two fork legs were not extended equally, cocking the axle in the sliders.
Check that the axle is square with the sliders. Loosen parts and knock the sliders as appropriate.
 

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I was going to mention a bigger hammer, but the above reply is better.

Heat helps...
 
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I had this problem with a stuck front wheel axle.
Turned out that the two fork legs were not extended equally, cocking the axle in the sliders.
Check that the axle is square with the sliders. Loosen parts and knock the sliders as appropriate.
I agree with that , plus the tree which had grown into the front wheel should have made the two fork tubes going out off square , so as above loosen fork tree and may be fork top nuts ( and knock the sliders down ) , hope this help ........
 

L.A.B.

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I have hit it with an array of hammers with wood (and broken several pieces of wood). Any tricks for removing a super seized axle or anything I'm missing?

Will the axle turn (using a bar in the head of the axle with heat applied to the bottom of the sliders if necessary) as that would indicate it was not seized in the sliders?

Judging by the amount of corrosion shown in the photos if water has got into the hub then the axle could be rusted solid to the bearing spacer tube so the hub casting is probably all that's likely to be salvageable.
If the axle won't knock out then lever the non-disc side slider away from the hub if possible (after removing the spokes and what's left of the wheel rim if you haven't already done so) and cut through the axle with a hacksaw or cut-off disc. With the mudguard/fender bridge removed, it should then be possible to rotate the disc side slider and remove the hub, again using heat at the bottom of the disc-side slider if necessary.
 
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May 74, and prior to me owning it was untouched with the exception of peashooters in place of the black cap silencers
In which case you are looking at 260 mains in the carbs for the peashooters, mine was fitted with peashooters but had the correct MK2a 230 mains for the black caps and would not take full throttle until I went to 260 mains.
 

L.A.B.

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Sorry. Deleted my post.

Ok although I didn't "request" you delete it as it says. I was just trying to prevent this rebuild thread from turning into what could have been a lengthy Mk2A discussion. ;)

Be aware that the bean cans on an 850 require the step-cut spray tube emulsifiers in the carb throat, or the bike will bog on throttle roll-on at speed.

I would remind members once again this is a rebuild thread and not a Mk2A discussion thread.
 
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Nick -- if you end up needing to cut through the axle to get that front wheel off let me know -- I suspect that if I dig around a bit I could find the front axle that had been with the wheel I sent to you earlier.
 
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Id suggest you buy a GALLON of C.R.C. / WD 40 or suchlike . here in Aus. WD 40 is 38 bucks for 4 litres .

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I tryed gallons of oil , used . drilling holes , chopping down , drilling holes , gallons of oil , on PRIVAT . It Thrived , High Gloss regrowth .
So much for the TREE .

Get a garden spay bottle attomiser thing , and statrt spraying . EVERTHING . And inside the swithblocks & around the plugs . Specially
Spark Plugs . WAY BEFORE yoou remove anything . We speak from experiance . It saves getting blood all over everything .

Also figuring optimum fit & hit . Light taps with a 5 or ten pound hammer beat mighty whacks with a baby one .

Spray inside engine , bores , chest etc etc . DONT use loose spanners . The odd metric one is a good close firm hammer fit .

TO SAVE NUTS . also theres a nut up in under behind the back of the head, below -> under top of barrel . Needs a dog leg spanner .

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The Axle There , First free the clamp bolt . , But leave it in - refit - un tight .
If thats a casting split line , a fine cutom steel fine taper wedge , maybe hardened ( red hot then drop in oil )
Will start to spead the thing , JUST A TOUCH , so the C.R.C. can penetrate axle / leg join .

The sliders / Legs are cast , Not forged like a manx . So dont get brutal , tho the scientific application of brute force is another story .
Pre CRC ing the triple clamps , then dropping the top assembly , leaving the triple clamp back in place , you could get the front end to a large hydraulic press .

But cutting the axles no worries . But Mask / Tape , or sheild ( with a piece of tin , adjacent your ministrations so components are unscarred .

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A pair of high quality VICE GRIPS are a real assett , for the odd inaccessable bit . Clamped real tight , but not so as to crush nuts to studds .

Olde Mk 1 Cortinas , Corsairs & Chryslers benifetted from TWO WEEK previous doesing , liberal at heavy bolt . Saturated . And a second at one week
if you could afford it . Otherwise bolts could howl and snap in the nut . The left rear spring front bolt was the one occasionally tyre levers , prying
and a hack saw were the only solution .

But be thoughtfull & dont hit toward componentrty if avoidable . And get some mug to hold the spanner securely aligned qwhile you hit it , on stuck bits .

Obviously free all flanges , all bolts , just a touch initially . NOT one bolt / nut out then trying the next . Recipee for disaster on severall counts .

SO , likely first step is find all the free bits / 1/2 tyrn . And MARK all the un free / jammed stuff . And STUDY the best acces for leverage without damadge
as the spanner swings . Simultaeneous heat'd be good . The Paint Stripper / Heat guns work better & quicker for changeing bearings & freeing cylinder liners
in exoting model aircraft engines , than ovens & hot water etc . Tho Castor Glued locked wrist pins can take WEEKS & many Heat / CRC cycles before the
dried castor softens & frees . Or the corrosion . Thats the normal worst in them .

SO DONT HAMMER / LEVER the RODS or any precision aligned engine gearbox stuff without forethought & science . Itll still be there tomorrow .
Unless you bugger it .
 
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Be very carfull & just EASE it apart a fraction , maybe 5 thou. If you get carried away , itll snap .

Easyist it two thin tin plate in ea side, & V Fine taper edge - or just flat sheet , gently tapped between .

And saturateish Before & during with , er. Wotwasthat stuff . & the axle should TURN in there .
Just a sidgeon Each Way at first . Back n fwd a bit , and carefully work loose.

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Same often with nuts & bolts , free a few turns , saturate , turn back in a few turns to carry the CRC in , Then back and one turn or even just 1/2 out. Then Back . If theyre baulking . So you dont carry away the threads .
Then you need a wire brush & a bench wheel ditto.
And a face mask .
If you dont want to cough up & spit out oxide snot & throat mucus of a grooty brown rust colour. What you can get out, anyway .

Bits like those stay fastner threads are vulnerable , grot plus threads on corroded bolts , can & will take half the thread outta the Aluminum, as its softer .

So CAUTIOUSLY - Minimum Force - back & fwd With PLENTY of crc / time / heat gun , can avoid gallons of tears .
The odd one you might drill the head off if its a free hole - goes right through - somewhere . Maybe . perhaps if necesary

OR pilot drill dead center , say 3/32 . New Bit , then out in a few stages . A deft hand can get it AT the thread part line ,
Or a nut ' flanked ' J U S T to the outer threads , Where a cold chisel ( sharp & not undersize ) will kick the nut free as its used to open the clearance as it rotates the nut .

Enrolements for dismantlers course , enquire . . .

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The FRAME . Hang it up And use it as a chime , to access its not rotted out inside . Like the odd one ive seen in a paddock .

Id surreptitiously drill 1/8 in holes in unstressed areas of closed tubes , and Non Acid hot tank it , so derustted inside & out .
& fuel & oil tanks while your at it . Only way to get the insiders reaLLY CLEAN
Not a fan of plastic coatings myself however .

The above if hot tanked , might be more usefull as a colander , after

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Yours aint too bad .. but SALVAGE . You gotta decide WHICH bits are gunna get chopped ,
as in which bits are NOT gunna get the chop . Here And There, at times .

Wont be a lot of prestine parts on the indian there . Take it easy & think jobs through where tricky .
 
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