A hello from blighty

Hi All. Have been viewing this Norton forum for some time now and felt it was about time I signed up to say hi. Am based in the UK, West London area. Have four bikes but my Norton Commando never fails a smile factor, equally it can also frustrate as well of course!!.
Had the Norton from new in 1972 and apart from Boyer ignition is in standard spec. However having once again been re-enthused with brushing off the cob webs and using it, these forums have induced me to spend a few coppers and buy some mod cons for the beastie.
Great sight to browse and as well as gleaming information from it, hope to impart some also where I can,----as long as its not electrics, cant handle electrics. Having said that Im replacing the original wiring harness!!! :shock:

Hello from the other end of the M3 nr Winchester, hope all goes well with the mods - you can spend a lot on some. I have done some which make the Commando a bit more reliable, but have found out like many others no doubt the best way for keeping a commando reliable and safe is to ride it on regular basis and give it a good visual looking over every 500 miles or so for loose items and missing nuts an bolts ( battery terminal bolts are worth checking ) - I've found medium strength loctite on bolts that can't be changed to ny-loc works a treat. The two electrical failures I have had have been the dreaded 2MC capicitor.

Welcome from Los Angeles! This forum is an incredible resource for absolutlely anything related to your Commando. Of course, pictures of your Commando are greatly appreciated!

Welcome from Houston, Texas. This forum is a fantastic source of information and "Norton porn" is ALWAYS
welcome here.
I'm an electric idiot and I'm going to build a new harness for my bike, by my estimate it would take someone
who knew what they were doing a couple of hours and I'm fully ready for it to take me weeks but that is the
price we pay. Since I'm not worried AT ALL about stock the harness is going to be very basic, it is getting
planned out on paper now.

16G, all soldered.
Negative ground.
Headlight (with high beam).
Horn.
Battery (UPS, AGM battery).
Ignition switch (2 position Boat switch).
Tail/stop light.
LED license plate lights.
Tri-spark ignition.
Handlebar switches.
LED high beam indicator.
Instument lights.

Unclviny

Since you are in the planning stage I'll take the opportunity to warn you that soldered connections and vibrations do not go well together. The solder wicks up the wire for a short distance and that portion of the wire is no longer flexible. I'm certain you've noticed factory automotive connections are crimped, not soldered. If it were me, I'd get the insulated, shrink, crimp connectors and a proper crimping tool.

Unclviny said:

Welcome from Houston, Texas. This forum is a fantastic source of information and "Norton porn" is ALWAYS
welcome here.
I'm an electric idiot and I'm going to build a new harness for my bike, by my estimate it would take someone
who knew what they were doing a couple of hours and I'm fully ready for it to take me weeks but that is the
price we pay. Since I'm not worried AT ALL about stock the harness is going to be very basic, it is getting
planned out on paper now.

16G, all soldered.
Negative ground.
Headlight (with high beam).
Horn.
Battery (UPS, AGM battery).
Ignition switch (2 position Boat switch).
Tail/stop light.
LED license plate lights.
Tri-spark ignition.
Handlebar switches.
LED high beam indicator.
Instument lights.

Unclviny

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Hey Uncle, see my post on 71 diagram. May be just what you need. Cut out all the interpole stuff and made neg gnd.

Hello from North Blighty AKA Scotland.

I'm doing to my '72 Combat what you are thinking of doing re the mod cons stuff. To date:

Change to single Amal MkII - OK but wish I'd gone for the Mikuni
Boyer already fitted when I bought it, seems fine
All wiring removed and a custom harness made (there were two many spare wires!)
All the nonsense electrics removed and replaced with a power box (single phase)
Primary drive replaced with belt kit from RGM
Fold away kickstart fitted - rubber needs gluing in place!

I' currently saving up to replace the tired chrome wheels with alloy and stainless. I'm going to change the wheel bearings for sealed type, I'm considering doing the Colorado mod to allow a decent sealed final drive chain.

Other (lowering maintenance/increasing reliability) mod recommendations appreciated.

d

Hi from Aussie Aries,

love to hear what other bikes you have and some pics please!

As others have broached the subject, just a couple of words if I may on soldering and crimping.

If you're going to solder a connector and don't do it properly it is going to result in a brittle fracture sometime further down the line. To avoid a fatigue failure the solder joint needs to be stress free so make sure that you solder the wire down near the business end of the connector and don't let the solder 'wick' up the wires beyond the point where it is normally crimped. So solder it first then crimp it anyway.

Having said all that, if a normal crimp is done properly you will get what's called a 'cold' weld and the connection will last indefinitely and will not be subject to failure from oxidisation. You also must size the connector to the wire gauge to get a snug fit and a proper mechanical clamp. To do it all properly you need a decent ratchet crimp tool and not those pissy cheapo scissor-type ones you can pick up at the $2 store. Good tools are always a good investment - believe me.

Hi All. Thanks for your replies

Madnorton said:

Hello from the other end of the M3 nr Winchester, hope all goes well with the mods - you can spend a lot on some. I have done some which make the Commando a bit more reliable, but have found out like many others no doubt the best way for keeping a commando reliable and safe is to ride it on regular basis and give it a good visual looking over every 500 miles or so for loose items and missing nuts an bolts ( battery terminal bolts are worth checking ) - I've found medium strength loctite on bolts that can't be changed to ny-loc works a treat. The two electrical failures I have had have been the dreaded 2MC capicitor.

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Madnorton. May have seen you if you have got to Loomies cafe, In East Meon this summer. Been a few Nortons there this year at weekends.
Have not knowingly had problems with the Capacitor but its many years old so will replace it anyway. The new ones only have two leads, where as the original had three??

Brought more stuff from a classic bike show the weekend. So jobs to do now. Like to keep Norton as originally Visually spec as possible.

Dave Taylor Head Steady
M111 Isolastic conversion
New Carbs and Chrome slides
Will get the head skimmed to try and fix an age old oil splatter at higher RPM :? Although having tried other fixes, am begining to wonder if the heads porous??.

Other bikes in the garage are:
BMW 650GS and K1100RS
Honda 1500 Wing

Soon as I get to grips with web site and take some photos will get some piccys loaded up.
Good advice re crimping wires. Vibration will work harden almost anything :roll: Splutter to a halt on a dark country road to finally discover fractured joint at the Boyer ignition timing plate. Managed to bodge it succesfully to get home.

Splutter to a halt on a dark country road to finally discover fractured joint at the Boyer ignition timing plate. Managed to bodge it succesfully to get home.

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Did both leads fracture? I had one at a time fracture, but it usually results in a miss below 3000 rpm. Never been stalled, yet. Going with crimped ring connectors and #4 screws and nuts seem to take care of the problem. It's really sad Boyer has not retrofitted these. Their lame attempt at stress relieving doesn't cut it. I know I'll soon go with a Tri-Spark.

In East Meon this summer. Been a few Nortons there this year at weekends

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I ride past there on my way to Fareham, never thought of stopping to take a look.

Hello from the other end of the M3 nr Winchester,

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I don't suppose you're the same guy that gave a lift to an idiot whose Commando ran out of fuel a few years back on the A31? That kind gent had an Interstate I think and was from Winchester.

JimC said:

Did both leads fracture? I had one at a time fracture, but it usually results in a miss below 3000 rpm. Never been stalled, yet. Going with crimped ring connectors and #4 screws and nuts seem to take care of the problem. It's really sad Boyer has not retrofitted these. Their lame attempt at stress relieving doesn't cut it. I know I'll soon go with a Tri-Spark.

Click to expand...

Hi Jim
No just the one lead shook loose with intermittant firing and kangaroo petrol!!. Final repair was with solder, then covered in RTV silicone.

Greetings Tea bags, from New England! I had the pleasure of visiting the famous Ace Cafe' on my recent trip to "Old Smoke". Happily, it was "British V day", featuring Vincents and Vellocettes. Thanks to Ralph, for letting me bend his ear for awhile.