73 850 was running then it stopped and it wont restart

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The operative term is "relatively healthy" motor. The bike was starting, idling/running normally. That sounds healthy to me. Bikes aren't like people having a heart attack when just idling. For compression to disappear would require something catastrophic and would be totally noticeable when he tried to start it. Also there would be other evidence, like a smoked up garage or a frozen motor or something very obvious. No, its something simple and its right in front of him and he can't see it. That's why its important to methodically go through the process of elimination.
 
drsus said:
So, I started my bike in the garage just because I hadn't ran it in a while so I just want to run it for a few minutes. It took a bout 4-5 kicks since I hadn't started in a while and then it ran fine. I left it running longer than I planned to because I got on the phone but basically it ran for about 10 minutes fine, then it quit...
Did roughly the same thing with mine when first coming out of mothballs. New plugs, clean idle jets, and running a couple of times to verify proper oil circulation and charging action. Once on the road, it began to drop one side just at idle, but would run under a light load. Got progressively worse. First try was swapping plugs and/or wires left to right; same side still dead. Dug into carbs a couple of times with no change. Finally threw in another new set of plugs, and ran those for close to two years before swapping out as a matter of habit. My only explanation is something in that one coil or points that caused the one side to be just enough weaker than the other.
Keep in mind that, as pressure around the spark plug gap increases, it becomes increasingly difficult to spark. Even light fouling can cause the spark to be bled off to ground, even though you see a nice, fat spark when propped against the head. A pair of plugs is cheap troubleshooting.

Nathan
 
Cannot see ticking over too long being an issue unless its sooted up the plugs.
From what you said, I would put money on the plugs, just change them for new ones.
 
Nater_Potater said:
drsus said:
So, I started my bike in the garage just because I hadn't ran it in a while so I just want to run it for a few minutes. It took a bout 4-5 kicks since I hadn't started in a while and then it ran fine. I left it running longer than I planned to because I got on the phone but basically it ran for about 10 minutes fine, then it quit...
Did roughly the same thing with mine when first coming out of mothballs. New plugs, clean idle jets, and running a couple of times to verify proper oil circulation and charging action. Once on the road, it began to drop one side just at idle, but would run under a light load. Got progressively worse. First try was swapping plugs and/or wires left to right; same side still dead. Dug into carbs a couple of times with no change. Finally threw in another new set of plugs, and ran those for close to two years before swapping out as a matter of habit. My only explanation is something in that one coil or points that caused the one side to be just enough weaker than the other.
Keep in mind that, as pressure around the spark plug gap increases, it becomes increasingly difficult to spark. Even light fouling can cause the spark to be bled off to ground, even though you see a nice, fat spark when propped against the head. A pair of plugs is cheap troubleshooting.

Nathan

Same type of thing happened to me, I was getting my bike ready for the summer after storing over the winter. At first wouldn't idle off choke so cleaned the pilot jets, problem solved.

Went out for a few 20 mile runs to tune carbs & got everything sorted.

Went for a short 10 mile run & got caught in some slow/no moving traffic so lots of idling/very light throttle, after 10 mins of this bike started running on one cylinder.

Checked plugs, one was slightly sooty but the one from the cylinder not firing was VERY sooty, changed the plug & away I went.

I did check the tappet clearances & the side which was VERY sooty was a bit loose, once I spec'd the tappets this side now runs closer to the other in terms of plug colour.

Interesting theory about the coil, I've been thinking about getting new coils, still have the original, just need to decide on which coils are the 'best' ones to get!!

On another note I tend to anthropomorphize mechanical objects, especially motorbikes, my 850 MK3 is a 'he' and he can have 'grumpy' days, totally illogical but it's just the way my head is wired!!!
 
B+Bogus said:
While I've never had this exact situation, I have had a few occasions of the bike refusing to start after being laid up for a while.
Agree with BillT - What's worked for me also is to remove the pilot screws (after noting the 'turns-out' setting) and clear the pilot jet with a piece of fine wire.
I use the brass wire mesh from wine bottles, but the effect is the same.
Easiest/cheapest thing to try at any rate ;)
Previous suggestions also sound good, and I'd also favour a new set of plugs and a quick check that the timing hasn't suddenly adjusted itself.
I've encountered Electronic Ignition stators appearing to be tight in the cam but actually free enough to spin slightly due to the supplied retaining bolt being a little overlong and bottoming out.
Something I now check on every build... :roll:
Is yours still on points, or electronics?

I sometimes let my bikes idle for a while, and yes they get a bit hot, but I can't see it doing any lasting harm. Just not the best time to set the pilot screws.

Hope you get it nailed

Im running electronic ignition. Ill give the pilot screw idea a shot and check the timing.
 
o0norton0o said:
Check the simple stuff:

-is the kill switch sticking or corroded?

I've bypassed this, I hate kill switches because of this scenario.

-look for a grounded wire inside the headlight shell or a skinned wire on the harness

I have good healthy spark so I've check off an ignition problem but ill check anyway cant hurt.

-old, crappy ignition switch with corroded contacts.

-add a few temporary direct hot wire to the ignition box, and temporary ground wires to the ignition circuit and engine to eliminate electrical causes.



-old battery with a single bad cell or a weak cell. check the water level on your battery, leave the headlight on for 5 minutes and check voltage

Battery is brand new...3-4month, kept on trickle when not in use for linger than a week.

-remove the air filter and visually inspect (with a dental mirror if need be) your slides going up and down when you twist the throttle. Perhaps a cable let go...

-Reach a finger into the mouth of each carb and gently feel if the needle is moving up and down with the slide body when you twist the throttle. The needle clip could be dislocated and the needle is now sitting in the jet... (the bleeders will work, but the bike probably won't run)

this sounds like a good thing to check, I haden't suspected fuel since I can tickle the carbs fine

-check all the intake manifold bolts for tightness and inspect the manifold for cracks

... a little deeper:

check compression

-check valve train for proper clearances
 
If Steve the "hobot" were still writing in he would mention the invisible wire breakage under the insulation at the solder to not-soldered position in the Boyer. It happened to me and now with the simple fix is working well. A lot of vibration when idling.
Lance
 
Commando Cam said:
Drsus-

Brother, I have 40 years with Brit bikes and I started with a TRident which we all know is a lot more funky than a Commando and I have NEVER heard of idling too long as being an issue and I live in the southern US where its as hot as the devil's balls right now

yeah, I've done this with many of my bikes and never had issues but some pole here are warning me a bout it so I'm taking that into account. Ive idled the bike for long periods of time in the past with no issues though.

- Always remember that the Commando is an extremely simple motorcycle and that any issue is ALWAYS the simplest root cause. Again - simplest root cause

There are only 3 things involved in a relatively healthy motor starting and running - Fuel, Spark, and timing. That's it, nothing else.

Fuel -
- You mentioned that the float bowls flood as normal, So, it is not the tank vent. If it starts, runs for a short period of time and dies, check the vent. Next, drop the float bowls. You can do that without removing the carbs. Inspect them for something obvious like a lot of trash and clean them with carb cleaner. Next, pull the jets. Again, you can do this with the carbs still in place. Check them carefully and make sure they are not blocked. While the jets are out, look at the bottom of the exposed needles and make sure one is not obviously lower that the other. If the jets are clear and you don't find anything obvious, put them back together. Your problem is not fuel. I caution you not to over think carburetors. Amals are really simple and really reliable and they don't fail catastrophically, they just get sloppier and sloppier as they wear out. I chased gremlins in the 3 trident carbs for years and years till on a visit with Les Williams in England he explained how they work and helped me recognize that my issues were all in the ignition.

I just rebuilt these amals, one of the carbs was sticking and would keep flooding when I tickled it so I went ahead and re did both of them, it was running great aside form dying at idle after ridding for a long time. I was actually letting it idle this ling this time around to see how the idle would behave as the bike got hotter and I had set a good idle for it and then it died for good. Before when it would stall at idle after a long ride it would still kick start juts fine again, this seems like a new issue separate from that

Spark - OK, if all of the above went well and you have ruled out fuel delivery; lets check the spark. First - put the key in the ignition and turn the bike on and check that you have lights and horn. If these systems are not working, you have a short circuit and it should be obvious because the bike was running. start looking for a lose wire or something melted. Assuming that this checks out and you don't have a general short or electrical failure , pull one of the plugs. Clean and gap it and hook it back up to the spark plug lead. Lay it on the side of the motor and with your garage relatively dark, kick the bike over and check to see if you have a spark. If you have spark , the problem is timing which we will talk about below. If not, go to the kill switch on the handle bars and clean the contacts and check again for spark. If you now have spark, you are good to go. If not, the problem is in the ignition system. If you have electronic ignition, check the box. (When you are under the seat be careful. My MK3 has a capacitor that will light you up if you are not careful).

its not spark. I have a good healthy blue spark out of it. I've bypassed the kill switch a while ago, I still tested for spark with the switch moved from one position to the other just for shits, all good

Timing - If you determined that your fuel delivery system is normal. And you had spark at the plugs and it still won't start - the only thing left is timing. Static time the bike and make sure the advance unit moves freely.

Once you've been through this model the bike should start. You should be able to do all of this in a couple of hours. I'm not saying that your problem isn't some bizarre multifaceted cascading multi-system bla bla bla one in a million event - Well, yes that's exactly what I'm saying

Let us know how it goes
Cheers,
Cameron

;) thank you
 
lazyeye6 said:
Commando Cam said:
Drsus-
There are only 3 things involved in a relatively healthy motor starting and running - Fuel, Spark, and timing. That's it, nothing else.
Cheers,
Cameron

What about compression?


I have compassion. Admittedly I've done the poor mans check (stick finger in spark plug hole while the cylinder comes up blah blah), and she's still hard as hell to kick over with the plugs in. Not the most scientific proof but it should tell me there isn't a huge compression problem right?
 
lazyeye6 said:
Commando Cam said:
Drsus-
There are only 3 things involved in a relatively healthy motor starting and running - Fuel, Spark, and timing. That's it, nothing else.
Cheers,
Cameron

What about compression?


I have pretty good compassion. Admittedly I've done the poor mans check (stick finger in spark plug hole while the collider comes up blah blah), and she's still hard as hell to kick over with the plugs in. Nt ye most scientific but it should tell there isn't a huge compression problem right?
 
lazyeye6 said:
Commando Cam said:
Drsus-
There are only 3 things involved in a relatively healthy motor starting and running - Fuel, Spark, and timing. That's it, nothing else.
Cheers,
Cameron

What about compression?


I have pretty good compassion. Admittedly I've done the poor mans check (stick finger in spark plug hole while the collider comes up blah blah), and she's still hard as hell to kick over with the plugs in. Nt ye most scientific but it should tell there isn't a huge compression problem right?
 
L.E.N. said:
If Steve the "hobot" were still writing in he would mention the invisible wire breakage under the insulation at the solder to not-soldered position in the Boyer. It happened to me and now with the simple fix is working well. A lot of vibration when idling.
Lance

Good call. But would he still get some spark when the plugs are out of the motor?
 
Well maybe a weak spark, mine was confusing because it had a weak visible spark when out of the engine, but a simple tub on the wire showed it to be broken and pulled out from under the intact insulation. An "Aha..." moment for sure. Just another simple thing to check before diving deep.
Lance
 
check your wires connections at the Boyer.
Some years ago I took my wife t the Collingwood rally on the 850. went fine all weekend, stayed an extra night and rode the next morning to Nelson in pissing rain. Had lunch with cousins in Nelson, then off to stay with a cousin in Havelock. Stayed the night. Next morning, bike wouldn't start. swapped plugs over [ thought I had spare new ones but they were used ] bike spat at me but wouldn't start. Bought 2 new plugs and the bike started. rode to the ferry at Picton and stopped the engine. Would not start again so had to push it onto the boat. Trucked the bike from Wellington to home. Problem was a breaking wire at the Boyer connector. The connector had not been crimped over the insulation as well as the wire and it had finally broken. Fitted 4 new connector pieces and bike went fine. Later I replaced the dud Boyer with a Payzon and bike has never run better.
Dereck
 
Clearly you have compression. Clearly you have spark. Your carbs are working. Does the bike fire at all when you are trying to start it? I can't imagine having spark and fuel and no bang unless it is out of time.

Again, check the static timing


If I remember correctly, you static time a Boyer with a feeler gage. I think you line the marks up and check the gap at the stator. If you are anywhere close to the right gap, it should fire and start, maybe not well, but there will be signs of life.

KeriNorton's experience is worth checking. Check all of the wiring on the ignition for wear , connection, or cracking.
 
Commando Cam said:
Again, check the static timing

If I remember correctly, you static time a Boyer with a feeler gage. I think you line the marks up and check the gap at the stator. If you are anywhere close to the right gap, it should fire and start, maybe not well, but there will be signs of life.

A Boyer ignition would normally be statically timed by lining up the paint mark on the Boyer rotor magnet with the appropriate timing hole in the backplate.

http://www.boyerbransden.com/pdf/KIT00053.pdf
8.)
Figure 1.
 
Ok guys, she's running again.


Plugs.... godammit.\

I only replaced them because I had the set sitting there and I was about to throw the thing off a cliff I was so frustrated. I tried everything you guys suggested and nothing. I had speak, good strong looking spark when ever I tested for it, which I did a bunch of times because I basically turned nota chicken with its head cut off in my garage after 4 days of this.

Changed them and she fired up after just two kicks as usual.

What I dont get os that the old plugs dot look bad at all. They're gapped correctly, a little brown/black but not oil or accumulation of anything on the electrodes...nice clean path basically.

Oh well, I don care why anyone, she runs.


I REALLY appreciate you guys. This is one of the few (only for me) forums where one can come and everyone is helpful and nice and grown up about why we're all here, its rare in the cyber community world now days. Thank you again and sorry it was such a dumb thing that was wrong but I learned a lot in the process, cheers

Nic
 
a plug with a cracked insulator may shoot a spark up inside the plug's broken insulator to ground and not ignite the fuel. When you ground the electrode tip to the head outside the engine it sparks at the tip and gives you a false positive leading you to believe the spark plug is good...

... I had this problem after a top to bottom rebuild. I could get the bike to sputter and die. I spring clamped the plugs to the head and kicked the bike over numerous times to see the spark, so I disregarded the spark plugs being at fault. On my second day of torment, my buddy said, "did you try new plugs?", and I explained that I had tested these... so why bother buying new ones. Later on, He came back to the shop with lunch and 2 new plugs... My bike started on the 3rd kick... Gawd damn plugs!!!

Just 'cause they spark at the tip when held against the head, doesn't mean they spark at the electrode inside the head... I learned the hard way too.
 
Awesome!!!! Congrats ! I knew it was something simple. I never thought of plugs sparking outside the motor and malfunctioning when installed. I learned something new too.
THX !!
 
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