72 Combat Proddy Build

You will need a complete stock headlight with bucket, a Mk3 with no holes for warning lights or ammeter is neatest, but any will do. The bucket bolts to the fairing bracket as it does to the stock ears. I highly recommend a quartz halogen reflector and bulb as by the time the light goes through the glass of the headlight and the plexiglass cover, it is loses a few lumens.

The headlight cover is P/N 063937'

Here's a complete list

http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/063935ATY.htm
 
Ron L said:
You will need a complete stock headlight with bucket, a Mk3 with no holes for warning lights or ammeter is neatest, but any will do. The bucket bolts to the fairing bracket as it does to the stock ears. I highly recommend a quartz halogen reflector and bulb as by the time the light goes through the glass of the headlight and the plexiglass cover, it is loses a few lumens.

The headlight cover is P/N 063937'

Here's a complete list

http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/063935ATY.htm

As you can see in the picture above the cover is there. So it looks like just the brackets and I have the headlight. I might be good. Of course I have the halogen already (although I still need to sort the wiring on that, I thought I had it figured out but alas...).
 
Okay, I was thinking of the Dunstall setup, this is PR!

I'm pretty much good to go then.
 
swooshdave said:
72 Combat Proddy Build


Getting ready for new wheels and tires. It'll be later this fall but that's ok.
Dave,
I am really excited to see that your back at it and am looking forward to your progress reports. I have learned quit a bit from your former posts.
What did you decided on for rims size and width?
 
T95 said:
Getting ready for new wheels and tires. It'll be later this fall but that's ok.
Dave,
I am really excited to see that your back at it and am looking forward to your progress reports. I have learned quit a bit from your former posts.
What did you decided on for rims size and width?[/quote]

Sadly I wouldn't classify it as "back at it". Bike looks just like it does in that picture from last summer. :cry:
 
swooshdave said:
19in both ends. Stock width. Alloy shouldered.

Nothin better. I have 19 akront shouldered rims on one of mine and love the look. Good to see you thinking about this again.
 
72 Combat Proddy Build


Finally got the right length bolts to hold the new well nuts on. Now to fix the back of the tank. The o-ring I got from Old Britts broke pretty easily. I think I'll try something else this time.

Need to get the bike on the ground and see if I still have clearance for the tank. Need some wheels first...
 
Ok, so this project took an interesting turn. Remember way back to page 1 when I talked about my brother wanted to make a racer out of this bike? I always assumed he wanted to make a racer out of it because there wasn't a title. Which is why I have been investigating ways to get an undocumented bike titled. See I bought this bike probably about 1991 or so. Believe it or not I have forgot one or two or perhaps a few thousand thing in the interim. You know, like where the bike came from, who I bought it from, if there was a bill of sale or if there was even a title.

Apparently Washington has a neat system for undocumented vehicles:

http://pnwriders.com/motorcycle-talk/126745-registering-old-bike-w-no-title.html#post2060270

broken link removed

WAC 308-56A-210
Agency filings affecting this section
Ownership in doubt — Bonded title or three-year registration without title.
(1) What is ownership in doubt? Ownership in doubt is when a vehicle owner(s) is unable to obtain satisfactory evidence of ownership or releases of interest as described in WAC 308-56A-265.
(2) What options are available in an ownership in doubt situation? When in an ownership in doubt situation, the owner may:
(a) Apply for three-year registration without title; or
(b) Apply for a bonded title described in RCW 46.12.151; or
(c) Petition any district or superior court of any county of this state to receive a judgment awarding ownership of the vehicle. This is required if ownership of the vehicle is contested after the applicant makes application for ownership in doubt and before the three-year ownership in doubt period has lapsed.
(3) What documents are required when applying for a bonded title or three-year registration without title? Required documents when applying for a bonded title or three-year registration include:

...cont. on link

With inlaws in Washington this might have been an option.

I know I had a small pile of old motorcycle documentation filed away somewhere so perhaps I had at least a bill of sale on the Norton. At least that would help me with the paperwork. So I'm digging through it today and I don't find a bill of sale, instead I find a SIGNED California title for the damn bike! I had totally forgot about it. And I hadn't bothered looking until now. :oops:

Remember kids, if someone tries to convince you that alcohol doesn't kill your brain cells, show them this thread.... :mrgreen:
 
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Alcohol supposedly is performing a "survival of the fittest" subconcious task for you.

You know how in the wild, typically only the weakest are eliminated? Well, those are the brain cells that are killed, the weak ones. That leaves you with all your remaining brain cells being the best and strongest.
 
72 Combat Proddy Build

72 Combat Proddy Build


Got the parts from Hemmings. I'm surprised the muffler mounts didn't include new rubber mounts. I got a new centerstand spring. I'll have to wait until I have wheels to get that put on. The one on the bike wasn't new and that's one part you don't want flaccid. I also got the little collar that goes on the rear brake.

Now if I could just get the wheels back...
 
72 Combat Proddy Build


Much closer now. I'll have to make a list of the things I still need to get done. I'll be doing a lot of work this weekend, hopefully.
 
Looking mighty sharp.

When is it going to ride off into the sunrise?

You need Yellow Accell plug wires.
 
grandpaul said:
Looking mighty sharp.

When is it going to ride off into the sunrise?

You need Yellow Accell plug wires.

Once the tank is painted you won't want anymore yellow on it.

Some of the things to do:

Turn signals
Warning lights
Exhaust mounts
Headlight (still need to sort that out)
Oil leaks, I told my brother that it leaked a bunch of oil when I put it up on the bench. He was like, yeah, there's a plugged hole on the engine that leaks. So now I have to try to figure out how to seal that.
The front brake still isn't where I want it to be. I bled the crap out of it and I still don't like it.
Front brake turned/ground. I know grinding is the preferred way to go but is there anything wrong with turning?
I'm sure there's a million things that will need to be fettled. But getting it back on the wheels is going to help so I can get it back on the ground and mess with stuff.
 
Are you going to paint all that nice aluminum of the tank Yellow. I think it needs a border of yellow, or windows of aluminum paint job. Showcase that tank.
 
I've always thought "grinding" and "turning" brake rotors was the same thing, but I believe there are different methods with both. Blanchard grinding produces a pattern on the disc, where simple machine turning results in faint concentric rings (essentially a spiral).

Hate to find out about previous problems AFTER the engine is back together and in the rolling chassis...
 
Back in the '70s they "had" to be blanchard ground FWIW according to the prevailing wisdom at the time (the dealer). There is not much meat to take off before the disk goes out of spec - maybe one time that's it. Mine ('72 combat) was originally a chrome disk but got scored by a small rock that wedged itself in there and I had to get it done.
 
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