'66 N15 coming together

mdt-son said:

I guess you mean alloyed steel? Damper rods need to be made out of steel due to (internal) spring/rod friction, which necessitates a hard surface.
It's surprising vendors like RGM do not list a rod made of an alloyed steel.
I wonder what kind of rods Don fits in his Lansdowne damper kits?

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I make my damper rods from anodized alu tube, with threaded inserts at both ends.
(damper caps ertacetal). I can see no sign of wear caused by the spring.

The pawl shouldn't touch the rachet plate, at least not when you hold the cover in the same position as it is on the bike.
Check that there is a minimal gap between pawl and upper spring leg.

Yes thanks Ludwig, I checked that out and there was a small gap, not touching springs when the pawl was centered.

Yesterday I painted the barrels and did some pre-assembly, bottom end is together as well. I used VHT brake and caliper on barrels because I really like the level of sheen, it holds up well over time. I did a bunch of Suzuki parts with it, it's just about exactly the same satin black as many stock parts had.

I used a diluted high heat on the cylinder head with rag/cotton swab to burnish it not coat it with paint. I'd have loved to get it professionally done but money's an issue so I do what I can. I need to make a gasket for the intake and find a new rubber adapter for the Mikuni VM34 it came with.

Got the major stuff together and it all feels right. I was a little worried about the dimensions, milling the spigots off the head. But there's no issues, the timing side chains are all adjusted with the help of that Andover tool, and the auto-advance is mated up to the new electronic ignition housing/unit. I really should have spent more time on polishing the timing cover etc but I guess I can get back to it.

I'm having trouble with the top, or crown nut on the yoke. The threaded 'steering stem shoulder' nut went on OK, but there was a section of thread toward the top, maybe 1/2" down that was tighter than it should have been. So that nut won't go down enough, it gets too tight for comfort past a certain point. I don't want to force it. I know there are 26 and 28 TPI versions, I've tried both and had the same issue. I guess I need a thread gauge. I tried counting and measuring an inch but it was a funky reading of around 27! Anyhow, frustrated that both 26 and 28 versions are not working out. The joy of getting a bunch of parts, who knows what it's from really.

I was looking at your intake manifold. Is that a Commando intake cut back to give the correct lean to the carbs on an upright motor?

franko said:

I was looking at your intake manifold. Is that a Commando intake cut back to give the correct lean to the carbs on an upright motor?

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I think it may be aftermarket conversion, Commando had individual carbs since the beginning I believe. Mikunioz sells a similar looking one.

gpzkat said:

I think it may be aftermarket conversion, Commando had individual carbs since the beginning I believe. Mikunioz sells a similar looking one.

Norton Atlas 2 into 1 Alloy manifold (manifold only) | Mikunioz

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Just be extra careful with those two inner mounting screws
The original atlas that I saw had slot head screws with a centre dot on the manifold each end of the slot in the screws
You don't want your motor gulping those down

baz said:

Just be extra careful with those two inner mounting screws
The original atlas that I saw had slot head screws with a centre dot on the manifold each end of the slot in the screws
You don't want your motor gulping those down

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The ones I have are Allen head and I'll secure them well, probably some thread lock. I gotta figure out this top nut on the yoke, bought a thread pitch gauge which I should have done in the first place, will see what's up when it arrives.

Well, the engine's in the frame or rather the frame's over the engine. Laying the frame down with the hoist made it pretty easy, but order of operation snagged me and I had to take two steps back then one forward w/regard to the engine to frame plates in the front.

I just came into a pretty decent pile of quite nice Norton parts, some usable, some sellable Commando stuff that will help me get to the finish line. I will receive my rear N15CS rim Tuesday from AN, and lace it up when I get my spokes from Buchanan's. I could drive to their shop but fuel's expensive!

I have to get tires, I run Avon Roadriders on my other bikes and like them but $$$ and not the look I want. Maybe K70s is it. I dunno, I'll figure it out.

This was at our local park today.... The guy inherited it from his Dad, I believe. Do think the chroming on the oil tank is sweet, not sure if that would be original though? (Or a 21" front rim, alloy or otherwise ?)

No neither is original, the oil tank and its cover were not chromed, and the front wheel is a 19". My oil tank cover is missing and the previous owner just painted the tank itself, it looks fine but I'll have to figure out some dummy bolts to fit in there.

gpzkat said:

Well, the engine's in the frame or rather the frame's over the engine. Laying the frame down with the hoist made it pretty easy, but order of operation snagged me and I had to take two steps back then one forward w/regard to the engine to frame plates in the front.

I just came into a pretty decent pile of quite nice Norton parts, some usable, some sellable Commando stuff that will help me get to the finish line. I will receive my rear N15CS rim Tuesday from AN, and lace it up when I get my spokes from Buchanan's. I could drive to their shop but fuel's expensive!

I have to get tires, I run Avon Roadriders on my other bikes and like them but $$$ and not the look I want. Maybe K70s is it. I dunno, I'll figure it out.

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I believe the new type k70s use a more modern softer compound and are much improved
No personal experience,just what I've been told

I was wondering what to run on the bike and these came along for the right price - free! I like the look, I would have paid $ for them even Chrome clamps and spacers on the way, I have the mounts, will fit them properly soon. Working on the rear fender/mudguard, treated the light surface rust on the inside and brushed on some silver Rustoleum. I need to make some brackets for the mudguard, they seem simple enough.

I decided on the K70's from Dennis Kirk. I'll get this weekend and mount. Did a small customization on the fenders, the top fork stay bolts were non stock and rusted, I got stainless carriage bolts for them, I prefer that cleaner look and they fit really well. Way cheaper too from the local hardware. Laced the rear with Buchanan's spokes, new rim from AN.

I just got a pile of parts including a near perfect original '73 rim, so I got new Buchanan spokes and will tear down my front and make it nicer. It looked good, but I just painted the spokes and the rim isn't as good. So it'll look as nice as the rear does. Really pleased with the look including the disc caliper.

This bike didn't have the strap accross the rear fender, it has the one bolt hole for the seat (the metal tab extends to the rear of the seat). The mudguard hole si a bit beat up so I will sandwich some washers and reinforce it, I think that'll do. I don't have the front low bracket, I think I can make that myself.

I had to throw it together after mounting the K70s. I like the look but the seat needs to come down an inch or so. So close and yet so far.

gpzkat said:

Did a small customization on the fenders, the top fork stay bolts were non stock and rusted, I got stainless carriage bolts for them, I prefer that cleaner look and they fit really well. Way cheaper too from the local hardware. Laced the rear with Buchanan's spokes, new rim from AN.

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By top fork stay I guess you mean the fork/mudguard bridge? Front end looks really clean, I like the chromed stays even though they look unfamiliar. Are fork bridge and mudguard genuine items?
The brake cable guide worked for a brake cable, but serving as a deflection restraint for the brake line, it may cause brake line to chafe.

gpzkat said:

This bike didn't have the strap accross the rear fender,

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There isn't one. It would benefit from one though.

Nice build. I look forward to the next step.

- Knut

mdt-son said:

By top fork stay I guess you mean the fork/mudguard bridge? Front end looks really clean, I like the chromed stays even though they look unfamiliar. Are fork bridge and mudguard genuine items?
The brake cable guide worked for a brake cable, but serving as a deflection restraint for the brake line, it may cause chuffing.

There isn't one. It would benefit from one though.

Nice build. I look forward to the next step.

- Knut

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Thanks, I meant the 8 total bolts that push through the stays to attach the mudguard - 4 top front, 4 bottom rear, sorry not so clear. Since the carriage bolts are snug in the squared edges of the stay holes they are just right and there's no need for an exposed hex bolt head up there IMO.

I don't know the bike's history, some items appear to be chromed after purchase including the front engine to frame mounting plates and the rear brake pedal. I think they are all original to the bike however, including the fork bridge and mudguard. I also have a chrome headlight shell and I went with exposed chrome spring shocks as I prefer the look. So a bit more bling.

The rear mudguard is mangled at the hole where the bolt attaches the back of the seat to it. Given the intended use of the bike I can see why. And you are right that's not a good idea to route the brake line, I will come up with something that won't chafe.

Towed my N15 up to my new home in Washington state and got to work again. I decided to buy a repro rear fender loop which was quite a bit cheaper than having my jacked up one fixed, it's on and fits fine. I also have mounted a repro Emgo chrome headlight shell and worked out the speedo drive interference - had to re-shape it in the vice with some heat, really worked out well.

I have a new 3 phase Lucas alternator on the way as the 3 rotors and two stators I have are all suspect, when the rotor is mounted it shouldn't wiggle I presume. They are of the 'exploding' type from what I've read. I got a Podtronics reg/rec, light switch and other goodies today. I am debating 12V negative ground to run LED tail light that I already have, it's a cheapo so hmm not sure. Many tasks remain especially wiring and ignition and myriad adjustments. I am waiting for the toolbox cover to get matched from the original painter. It'll be a cool custom and with just about everything freshened up I expect it to run and ride well, can't wait. Oh I got the brakes bled and feeling very solid with the $10 Yamaha scooter 1/2" master cylinder unit. Yeah it's a bitsa.

The one thing stumping me is the lack of any room for an air filter assembly with a single VM34 Mikuni. I'm going to have to get creative as there's about 1" clearance to the upper battery tray mount as per the pic. Also the interference of the center stand against the (proper length) lower gearbox stud ends. Maybe I can wedge a washer into each side to gain some clearance.

All my stuff is waiting for the original painter to get me the oil tank he painted in '94 back to me, with the matched toolbox/battery cover that I've asked him to do. It's frustrating because the whole bike's pretty much done. But oh well, in the end it's gonna work out.

I may age out on this project but my son could gain possession. He's going to be 18 in a month. At that age waaaay back I had a hand me down '72 Honda SL350, a cool bike but nothing like this Norton. He's a serious mountain biker that climbs 6K' hills and single tracks down. I think he can handle a Norton. But it's funny how we worry about our kids. Can they kick it over every time? What about the brakes? Dang, nobody every stopped me from riding everything from a home grown mini bike to a tractor to a superbike, so what's holding him back? Oh. His mom.

Thanks for letting me ramble haha.

Not sure anyone reads this but here goes....

My painter has the oil tank he painted back in '94, I gave it back to him for reference because he's doing the tool kit side cover...eventually. It's been a long wait to get it painted but I understand, he paints at his house and weather has not cooperated for months. In in the meantime I have finished everything electrical, brakes, etc. So I hope to ride in June.