1960 Model 50 questions

vfr800ch

vfr800ch

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I just bought a green 1960 wideline Model 50 and collected it yesterday, so some beginner's questions..

1) First time I've ever had such a difficult bike to put on the centre stand.. Just wondering if there is a particular technique to this.. I've had some 20 bikes with centre stands, and none were this awkward somehow..

2) Has anybody fitted a front brake light switch, I find it kind of disconcerting that cars behind me have no idea I'm braking.. I see Venhill have a cable with an integrated switch..

3) How does one reset the mileage (Km in my case) trip meter?

4) The petrol tap is just on/off, frightening not having a reserve! :oops: Just wondered what mileage/Km you get on one tank approx?

5) How is the seat removed?

Many thanks
 
Yes you can use a front brake cable with a switch to activate the rear brake light. I have used a cable from Venhill. Just be aware that you need to use an early cable because the adjuster threads on the later twin leading shoe brake went to UNF. Also there may be issues with the overall length of the cable depending upon which handlebars Venhill assumed were standard so measure carefully. The length affects where the switch ends up on the cable as well as whether there is excess length. I have a bike with no reserve. Check the fuel level in the tank a lot! Can't help with the seat - I only own slimlines.
 
Regarding:

1) Are your tires of proper size? A lower profile tire, especially in the rear, will make it more difficult to get it on the center stand.

2) You should be using both F and R when braking. When I have plenty of stopping room, I use rear exclusively. With a little ingenuity, you can fit a switch on front.

3) Most Smith's Speedos have a trip reset knob on bottom. Yours may be missing.

4) Replace the tap with one with reserve. Do a search on fuel taps on this site.

Slick

Edit: https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/1962-model-50-es2-petrol-taps.32275/#post-514540
 
Seat removal - there should be two wing nuts below the seat, just forward of the rear shock mounts/behind the tool tray. They fix to two studs which project through a cross member on the frame.
Fuel Tap - i just have an on/off tap on my ES2. You should get somewher over 275km from tank, my backside is screaming for a rest well before then so along with using the trip meter it hasn't been an issue.
Front brake light - i haven't bothered, just dab the rear lever when in traffic.
Centrestand - i had the opposite problem, had to weld a spacer on each leg or they wouldn't touch the ground. Tyres definitely make a difference.
 
Last edited:
texasSlick said:
Regarding:

1) Are your tires of proper size? A lower profile tire, especially in the rear, will make it more difficult to get it on the center stand.

2) You should be using both F and R when braking. When I have plenty of stopping room, I use rear exclusively. With a little ingenuity, you can fit a switch on front.

3) Most Smith's Speedos have a trip reset knob on bottom. Yours may be missing.

4) Replace the tap with one with reserve. Do a search on fuel taps on this site.

Slick

Edit: https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/1962-model-50-es2-petrol-taps.32275/#post-514540
Click to expand...
Thanks for the replies.

I will check the tyres, but I think they are correct as it's just passed the "Veteran" vehicle test (last for 6 years) and they are sticklers for absolute originality in such tests.

Yes, normally I'd always use both brakes, which leads my to another question, the rear brake pedal is kind of raised up to a position too hight for a natural heel on the footrest and toe on the pedal, without my foot being at some weird angle is there any adjustments possibility?

I will take a closer look at the speedo! I was a bit cold and knackered after riding it home yesterday and just parked it in the garage downstairs..
 
ntst8 said:
Seat removal - there should be two wing nuts below the seat, just forward of the rear shock mounts/behind the tool tray. They fix to two studs which project through a cross member on the frame.
Fuel Tap - i just have an on/off tap on my ES2. You should get somewher over 275km from tank, my backside is screaming for a rest well before then so along with using the trip meter it hasn't been an issue.
Front brake light - i haven't bothered, just dab the rear lever when in traffic.
Centrestand - i had the opposite problem, had to weld a spacer on each leg or they wouldn't touch the ground. Tyres definitely make a difference.
Click to expand...

Thanks, yes - 275 Km is way past my comfort barrier on most bikes ;-)
 
Brake pedal adjustment - there is a thread called "How does this thing work?" from Sept last year on this section of the forum. It has some good info.
 
Ref the trip mileage. The little knob you turn to reset it needs to be pulled down to work. It can be quite fiddly to use.
 
About the trip meter reset..

before I look at removing the headlight to see whether there's something missing inside, this is how my speedo looks: (not mine, but identical)

1960 Model 50 questions


I've looked all around the headlight shell, and there's no obvious place where there might be a hole for a missing shaft or something, there is a kind of drain hole right at the bottom of underneath of the shell, with some rubber grommet but it's not aligned in any way with the speedo, so can't imagine that's anything to do with it..
 
My speedo originally was mounted in the headlight shell exactly as yours. The trip reset ( pull & twist) is mounted on the bottom side of the speedo case, and IIRC, could not be reset unless the chrome headlight rim was removed. There is a rubber plug in the headlight shell where a shaft extension may have been intended.

I am the original owner, and I moved the speedo to the top fork nut, but I do not remember a shaft extension, but that does not mean one was not there before I moved the speedo.

Loosen (not necessary to remove) the chrome screw above the prancing lion medallion, and drop out the headlight. The trip reset shaft, about 1 1/2 inch long, should be plainly visible.

Slick
 
There is an extended shaft made out of wound wire. See first attached picture. Nissonger makes them out of plastic. I think the extension was supposed to come through the hole in the second attached picture that does not have a grommet. I have never attached the extension. I am very superstitious about Smiths instruments. I think the less you touch them (and the more you utter incantations over them) the more likely they will work.
 

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Bernhard said:
How many mileometers have you got on your speedo, 1 or 2?
Click to expand...
vfr800ch said:
there is nothing "visible" to pull&turn, but it was suggested I drop the headlight out to have a look what's on the back of the speed in the headlight casing..
Click to expand...
After 50 + years the speedo could have been rebuilt a couple of times, ie someone could have fitted the wrong outer casting to it.
Your earlier pic shows a Chronometric speedo face, these can unscrew at the bevel which the magnetic will not - unless you have got a Indian made one!
 
I have 2- main and "trip" (I had assumed..) , as shown above in the red headlight shell, but in Kilometers.
 
vfr800ch said:
I have 2- main and "trip" (I had assumed..) , as shown above in the red headlight shell, but in Kilometers.
Click to expand...
If you have no provision for a trip knob on the side or the bottom, then maybe someone fitted the wrong case.
 
I would keep an original brake cable and makesure there is a working brakelight on the rear footbrake
 
Your speedo looks remrkably like one off mine... had it reconditioned sowillget back toyou with some more info
 
on mine there is trip for the odometer...it is at the back underneath the 50mph marking on the front face
 
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