12V DC 1/4" solenoid for anti sump app.

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Stillreel

Stillreel

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Concerned about installing the 1/4" anti sump solenoid, wired to ignition to open when machine is on. The orifice leading from the supply side below the actuator vertically is 3mm diameter opening to the 1/4" oil pump side. This will definitely restrict flow to/from the 1/4" tubing even when fully open.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-way-2-positio ... 0058&rt=nc

Larger diameter valve also has a very small orifice supply side (see picture 9) and states NOT for GRAVITY FEED.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-034-Electri ... 4897.l4275

I do not want to starve the engine of oil but I have to do something; damn thing smokes like a bonfire if sitting more than a day.

BC
 
Most electric valves require pressure differential to operate, More pressure than would be supplied by gravity.
I wouldn't count on it to open reliably. Jim

Aren't you glad Lucas didn't supply oiling systems....
 
Why not send timing cover and pump to AMR? Forget about the Gyro Gearloose gadgetry. Putting anything but a hose between the oil tank and the oil pump is an invitation to disaster.
 
I totally agree, had a POS plastic & metal abortion fail on a motor recently with only around 1000 miles on it, fried the crank etc. probably 2000.00 to rebuild......sort out your oil pump first....or get a big stainless drain plug as on ebay & drain & refill, takes a couple of minutes, if that is too much trouble buy a Honda.......we never heard that much about sumping until these fad items came along...........or better still ride the thing regularly!
 
Stillreel said:
; damn thing smokes like a bonfire if sitting more than a day.

BC
Click to expand...
I don't completely understand this.

Are you saying that the oil tank will empty to the sump in a day or so and on start up oil is forced up past the pistons rings and smoke like hell? I guess I can understand it to a point but I don't know this to be a global, or at least sort of common, result of wetsumping.

I know it is sometimes hard to kick with oil forced out seal and overly seep where it normally shouldn't, but not smoke like hell.
 
I think putting valves of any kind is a all out LAST resort option, if at all. Working over the oil pump is the first thing I would do.

The cast casing of the pump can be lapped to bring the tolerances close. Getting the pump as good as possible also was the fringe benefit of pumping better.

Getting the Time cover reworked by the Timing Cover reworking Guy is a great thing to do. He also reworks the oil pump, I believe.
 
JimC said:
Why not send timing cover and pump to AMR? Forget about the Gyro Gearloose gadgetry. Putting anything but a hose between the oil tank and the oil pump is an invitation to disaster.
Click to expand...
Yep, found this out the hard way. "Read expensive" :(
 
Go with the AMR mod. Send them your timing cover and oil pump. Cost about $100 including 2 way shipping.

I would not have a warm fuzzy feeling with a solenoid valve in my oil supply line. In lieu of the AMR mod, I would rather have a manual valve with some sort of interlock or device to alert me to ensure the valve is turn on prior to start up.

Slick
 
I have a manual tap on my 850 with an interlock which isolates the electrics if the tap is not switched on - I fitted this 10 years ago and it works fine. The system is fail safe as, if there is an electrical fault, the ignition is immediately disabled. The valve/solenoid referred to at the beginning of this topic does not appear to work in this fashion - it would appear that if there is any type of electrical problem, the valve will close and cut off the oil supply - this would be somewhat serious!
 
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