1 phase 3 phase ??? + other questions.

First off I am truely weak in the understanding of electronics. I do understand the basic (very) basic stuff and what the parts do and did search through (some) old posts but still have some questions. (1) What is the diffrance between single & 3 phase systems?? Question (2) I want brighter lights in my headlight, oil Gage, speedo & tach. All bulbs are new etc. so I'm planning on installing a (3phase?) 200 watt stator/rotor combo and solid state regulator/rectifier unit and I'm wondering (#1 will this do it ) and #2 will this be safe with my existing wiring or do I need to upgrade any wires? I guess I SHOULD do the headlight relay mod too? Or should I just try the headlight relay first & see if that is good enough? I really can't see on dim mountain roads with my current system. Also I prefer to buy from Old Britts but $$ just became a big issue so if some one knows a place I can get this stuff at a significantly cheaper price that would help. Thanks.

think of phases as being the electricity output on a graph. It starts at 0 then goes to max then back to zero. 3 phase outputs 3 electrical arcs which overlap each other before they repeat. The max is more constant.

I could get out one of my books and snap a pic for you, but this thread has a graph someone drew that is basically the same. www.fieldlines.com/board/index.php/topic,138851.html

what kind of headlight reflector and bulb do you have? FWIW changed the stock items for H4 (got a good deal at http://store.candlepower.com/fco7h4mohebd.html) on my bike and that made a big difference, though have read that going to a 55W H4 headlight can lead to charging problems (with the stock single phase system) if you ride in town a lot at low rpm's but have not had this happen personally with mixed city and rural riding. The three phase setup is a great upgrade but at higher RPM's/cruising speed there is probably not a big difference in voltage so maybe not a big difference in brightness. A relay (fed by a fairly heavy fused wire direct from the battery) can help a bunch if there is a substantial voltage drop through the headlight wiring and switches...it is easy to check for this with a voltmeter by reading between the headlight bulb terminal and the hot side of the battery w/ the headlight on and there is some good info on hl relays at http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Stuff/Faqs/Relay_Info/relay_info.html Finally there are higher wattage bulbs that fit the instrument sockets and that helps too , they are easy to find at an auto parts store

I've run up to 165 watts of lighting on Sparkx 210 watt 3 phase but had a LED color chance voltmeter to alert me when discharging rpms about 1800 to keep over 12 v going under full load creeping at night. A decent battery helps a lot for stop and go and slow interval on full lights. LED brake and tail light also help spare charging rpms needed. Many report running heated gear with 180 to 210 alternators, but still need to keep eye on the charging balance to expect to need a push off to re start after a while.

Think of three phase vs single phase like this. Lets suppose you are at the bar and order three shots of tequila. If the waitress brings them one at a time, a half hour apart. You get a buzz off of each but are sober by the time the next one arrives. The effect is that after the third shot you can still remember where you parked your car. That is single phase.

Now same waitress, but you tipped her better and she brings the shots at ten minute intervals. The result is that after the third shot you ask her to marry you, can't remember where you parked your car and the situation seems normal. That is three phase. Before the first shot wears off you have another.

I don't know for sure if it will make the bulbs brighter but it sure sounds like more fun!

Russ

I swapped out the single phase stator last week and replaced it with a three phase one and regulator from Tri Spark in AU. Mounted the reg under the battery box, bit of a mission but in the air stream and out of the way.
I didn't however change the rotor as at the time I was unaware that the originals could fly apart in some instances.
The wiring changes pretty much consisted of ditching the Zener and old regulator.
I'm an electrician but if not comfortable I'd get some help rather than worry about frying your new bits.
The voltage reg does not have any charge light , but with a meter and the headlight on it was charging well below what the old single phase one was.
The headlight in mine is from a BMW R65 or R75/5....I only know this as I have an R75/5 in the rebuild queue. :roll:

I have the stock single phase stator with stock rectifier and zener. Checked my batt after sitting two days and read 12.5v. I ride with my high beam on all the time regardless if in city or country, day or night. I think it all depends on how leak proof your wiring is and how much time you spend at cruising speeds. Most of my riding is in the 60 - 70mph range so charging most of the time. Haven't charged the battery since installed, except once left the parking lights on over night. Even then, 10 minutes on the charger and away I went.

I don't think a 3 phase alternator will give you brighter lights, however what it will do is keep you battery charged, especially if you do a lot of town/city riding with your lights on. Remember these old tarts won't be charging the battery with the lights on below 3000 RPM approx. The 3 phase would make a difference in this respect.
Most modifications have already been mentioned, but LED tail and instrument lights are a good start, they draw much less current than the standard bulbs, have a look here http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm
For daytime riding you may want to consider an LED pilot light, much brighter than standard with a very low current draw. For night I think a H4 halogen bulb works well and costs almost nothing from your local car accessory shop.
Before upgrading your alternator, make sure the rest of your charging circuit is in good condition, remember your rotor might be well over 30 years old and could have lost a lot of it's magnetism, the easiest way to check this is to remove the rotor from the bike, get a large spanner (wrench) and see if the rotor will lift it's own weight.
I run a (with both new stator and rotor) standard single phase system with a H4 headlamp, solid state regulator/rectifier and a Boyer EI, I ride during the day on the pilot light and have never had to charge my battery.

I hope this helps

Webby

Your idea of a relay first is a good one. It's cheap and easy. Or at least cheaper and easier than trying a new stator, etc.
With the relay the power for the light not be going through an old switch so you might see a lot of improvement. If not, well then you aren't out a lot of money, and you've ruled out one thing.
A relay is also good idea for the horn

Only need one fuse, but a couple-3 relays or the bar switches and wires get warm wasting current. A rely for each bulb filament and 1 for horn to brighten it up too.

If we could figure out a way to attach supermagnets to the rotor, a 120 watt Lucas stator might kick Sparx 210 watt butt and make a Sparx power enough to run a station gas pump. They make these Neodymium magnets as rings and discs with mounting hole - a steel fastener could act as flux concentrator/projector, so I may try it by milling out most the old magnets then screw/epoxy on the several times stronger ones. Then might melt the poor ole Lucas stator.